good morning. 6:15am and i didn’t get up to go surf. i have jury duty. now i know how it feels to get up early, check the waves, see it’s going off, and be stuck in a room all day. that sucks… still chest high leftover sets with pretty dam good conditions. have a nice day and hope i have one too….

ok, like i said before, there is this secret reef that works on the right swell direction, tide, and wind. everything has to fall into place for it to work. if something is off, this spot doesn’t even exist. so as i left the park yesterday, i went to check it out. and it was working again. i saw 5 straight sets peeling and barreling like this. 3 of the waves spit. and was it crowded? nope. nobody was out. your going to have to be my good friend for me to tell you where this is. and if you are out there when i’m there, you better not tell anybody or i will have to hurt you… haha…

part of being an american is having duties. yeah, jury duties… i just got this mail for jury duty last week and the day is finally here, today. what do i have to do? show up 7:30am in town at the court building, sit down with some peers, and make judgement on some case. a judgement that can change some persons life forever. do i have to do it? yes. can i get out of it? no, i already tried…. i gotta go so i’m kind of looking forward to it. i wish i have some difficult case that makes all us jurors argue. because i love to argue…. i’m going to be the hard head guy that doesn’t want to agree. then we will have to stay in there all day. haha… the only thing i’m hoping for is that the guy getting charged isn’t my friend. because if he is, he’s going to be a free man… if you live in america, you have to pay your dues.. and i’m off to pay mine now…. just hope i have a lunch break because kewalo’s is right across the street…. boards in the car and i’m ready to go….

good evening. what a long day again. i pulled up to the park at 8am and the waves were still good. not half as good as yesterday but still pretty dam good. check out ronnie yamada in the back doing a snap. i told ronnie that i was going in after i caught my third wave because i didn’t want to kill my high from yesterday’s awesome session…. 2 more bigger swells on the horizon so i was over it. and plus, i had ahi fever….

after i came in, my sister was dropping off the kids to hook up with a photographer at big rights. i was going to paddle back out but had ahi fever on my mind….

this is “ahi fever” and it’s just begun in hawaii. these monsters are coming in and my friends caught 3 big ones yesterday…. see fishermen keep their spots secret so don’t ask me where they caught it. if you do, i’ll say at marukai reef… get it?

the biggest was over 190lbs or about 80kilos. imagine all that sashimi? and kama???? here is rod and brandon cutting up what’s going to be fresh fish for everybody for days….

not too many people know where the best part of the ahi is. know what toro is? if you don’t, forget it. if you do, get out the wasabi and start eating. gosh, if this was japan, i probably ate about $300 of fresh toro today. it just melts in your mouth…. ahhh….. get me a beer….[:?????????:][:?????????:][:?????????:]

good morning. high surf advisory for the south shores of hawaii. the waves were good yesterday but look even better today. just seen a solid 4′ set and the conditions look pretty dam good. yesterday i timed big rights perfect. as i was paddling out, all the boys were coming in. that was 12pm lunch time. today is sunday so i have to time it even better because i don’t want to surf with 100 guys out there. ummm, anyway, have a nice day and see you in the water….

i went to go chucky cheeses and ordered the all you can eat salad “one trip” plate. so i made “one trip” and ate all i could eat… at $6, i swear that salad bar is the best…

i always tell my friends that if they let me borrow their board, don’t expect it back if it works good. last week, mike woo dropped off his board to let me try and i tried it. and now he ain’t getting it back… i already cleaned it up and put my stickers on it… haha…

throughout my surfing life, i always rode squash tails on my short boards. i never had a round pin that worked like magic until this one. round pin with glass on fins… that’s the way to go. i can hit the lip and if the tail pops out, it catches so i can recover. i’ve been feeling like kelly slater these past days. haha.. this 6’0 board was designed for good waves and the waves have been better than good. so it’s all good. good day, go play…. and no, i’m not drunk….

and last, this is the kind of stuff that happens in countries around the world. but japan? no. this was the headlines this morning. “7 reported dead in Tokyo stabbing rampage,10 more wounded; alleged attacker says he was ‘tired of life'”
it happened in akihabara “electric town”. a 25 year old japanese man rammed his car into a crowd of shoppers, got out, and started stabbing them. i guess no where’s safe anymore. if your at the wrong place at the wrong time, your screwed….. that part of life sucks….