It was a beautiful morning!  Super sunny Sunday!  Trying out a Kelia Moniz longboard and feeling what the 2X World Champion rides.  

High performance longboard made for high performance riding.  

The girls ripping!  Walking on water all morning long.  After this, I put my camera away once I saw Allen swim out.  

Pretty cool because these girls have 2 photographers.  I’m shooting while surfing, and Allen is swimming while shooting.  The only waves I’m riding is the ones they are missing.  So yes, I’m riding the leftovers.  

You can learn a lot by looking at your photo because this is real.  Some people get shocked when they see their photos, but this is the best way to learn.  So yes, go get yourself a personal photographer if you want to surf cooler.

And if you have a good photographer, he will capture moments you don’t even know are happening behind you.  Nice shot Allen!  

These are the photos I like the best.  It’s all about the ambiance.

Nobody on this island is riding more waves than these girls.  They’re averaging 30 waves each per session.  The funny thing is if I don’t tell them it’s time go in, the will stay out forever.

We’ve been long boarding because the waves have been small.  Practicing timing, and practicing style.  When you have the right timing, the style follows, and everything after that looks really good.  This is a lot harder to do than it looks.

Next wave jumping on a shortboard.  Something most surfers have a difficult time doing.  But not for this surfer.  She can jump back and forth on any size board and surf it properly.  That is harder than it looks.

I saw lots of boats heading to Molokai for the Molokai to Oahu paddle board race that’s happening today.  I was an escort boat captain twice and both times the conditions were super rough.  This year I turned down the job and I don’t regret it.  At any age, your body will ache for a while because of the ride over and back.  It’s as rough and dangerous as it gets.  It’s not for everyone.

Then a storm comes and everything turns black.  You can’t see anything because of the strong wind and rain stinging your eyes.  This is not for everyone either.  So yes, I’m happy to be here on land in Hawaii and not in these rough seas for 2 full days.  My body just told me “thank you.”

Pop up timing test: PERFECT…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana knee-high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!