Yesterday once more:  Go Leo!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

That swell was still here this morning.  Really nice conditions and very few surfers.

Things are back to normal as the Uncles are controlling the lineup.  Laughing, making jokes, and taking turns.  This is what surfing is all about.

Mr. Smiles taking off in the right place.  Good to see you catch all those perfect waves again and again Malcom!

The “duck dive” feels good.  Pushing your surfboard under a wave and feeling the energy of the ocean flowing like a river through your face and body.  Perfecting this will enable you to catch more waves, get out faster, and break less boards.  It’s all good.

A perfect duck dive!

These 2 girls are training for the next big swell.  So now they won’t be paddling in from Bowls anymore, they will be swimming in.

Went out for Round 2 this afternoon with this amazing kid.  Photos coming tomorrow.  Goodnight for now…

This photo will be looked at over and over by the girl who dove under this big wave.  Her blue 6’4 surfboard looks like a toy compared to that wave.  I don’t think she really knew how big that wave was.  This photo will also be looked at over and over by the guy who unsuccessfully made it under that wave in time.  That little black dot is his head and when this wave came crashing down on him, it took him so deep down that everything turned black.  Barely making it to the surface, he survived and will be telling this story to his kids and grandchildren for the rest of his life.  Just by this single wave, 2 lives changed.  Welcome to the big wave world ladies and gentlemen.