Summer tourist boom…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana head high sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We arrived to the beach in the dark searching for the biggest wave.  That biggest wave was outside of Waikiki again so that’s where we went.  I have the 2 girls their 6’4’s because that’s all they have.  I would have preferred them to have at least 9’6’s.  But we make no excuses and they don’t know the difference anyway.  Haha.

We got out again and it was still HUGE!  Big barreling lefts that were similar to the power on the North Shore.  No way I would recommend anyone trying to ride these waves with a 6’4 but once again, they had no idea what was going on.    

This big wave charger girl was out there again.  She had the right board which was a 9’6 so getting these were easy.  It was the 3 girls and me all morning long.  I got to ride a couple of these on my 6’5 so that made me pretty happy.  The late takeoffs and hanging on for dear life was an adrenaline rush.  

My girls were on 6’4’s which is way too small.  On top of that, I forgot to change their fins.  They were riding twin fins!!!  No wonder their board was spinning out at the bottom of the wave.  Haha.  I didn’t realize that until later in the session.  I was following Rocky as she caught a big set, made it to the bottom, and her board started to spin sidewards because of the fins.  I thought she was going to fall and the whole wave was going to pound her deep down.  

But she recovered and completed the ride.  She was so happy today!  Now she wants to order a 9’6 and ride the big sets.  We have a new big waver surfer girl!  

We all caught our last wave together and this was the end of it.  The girls went in with the biggest smiles on their faces.  They want to do it again but I told them they might have to wait for another 10 years for a swell like this.  The swell was big, the direction was perfect, the tide was perfect, and winds were perfect.  It’s a once in a decade day and we got it for 2 days in a row.  Come tomorrow, this spot will be flat.  Embrace the memory and be ready for when the next one comes…

Early this morning at Waikiki again!!!! Still big and beautiful!!!!! The girls are stoked! Me too.