False Swell Alarm

Once again, the surf forecast got it WRONG.  We were supposed to have a new South swell the past 2 days in the 3-5′ range.  Nothing showed up.  Well, every surfer on the South shore showed up because there was no parking, lots of surfers, and little waves.  All you could hear in the water was “where is the swell?  When is it coming?”  Haha.

Once again, the South swells are very unpredictable and very hard to forecast.  There are just too many variables and too much distance from where the swell originates.  So that’s why nobody gets it right and even with all the technology we have now, they still can’t get it right.  So please don’t ask me when the next South swell is coming because if I’d be lying if I told you when.  In the meantime, just enjoy what we have because it always can be worst.

June 17, 2025 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Surf and sunny days continue…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Smile after Smile

Round 1:  An amazing time and an amazing day.  The South swell didn’t show up but it was still perfect for us.  Tamiko-san must have rode 25 waves this morning.

Miyata-san is a very happy surfer.  He knows a lot about Japan surfing culture and history.  It’s always so nice to talk about the amazing past we all had as surfers.

There ended up being 6 of us surfing together today.  Talking story, sharing waves, and enjoying the time while waiting for the perfect wave.

Ride after ride and smile after smile.  This is surfing.

Story after story and smile after smile.  This is surfing.

Thank you boys and girls for the amazing day!  Keep on surfing!