Scott under the lip…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

We paddled out in the pitch dark again.  Now my eyes are a lot more adjusted and now I can sense a lot more.  So this morning was a lot easier than yesterday.

I was riding behind Ryu-san on the first few waves.  I could barely see him but I could hear him yelling “Whew, whew!!!”

As the sun creeped up, the rides were a lot more clear.

You can’t beat surfing in perfect conditions like this.  It was so smooth!

Just a few locals out again as the daily morning life goes on.  Another morning with zero visitors.

Jerome caught one of the best rights of the morning.

If you look forward and bend your knees, you will be surprised on your success rate.  It’s at almost at. a 100%.

Ryu-san bending his knees and looking forward.  He caught so many good waves this morning on my magic board.  Every time he paddled back out, he was looking at my board and I know what he was thinking.  Ryu-san was thinking, “how can I get this magic board from Kirby?”  Then he looked at me and we started laughing.  Haha.

I’ve been working very hard with this girl to get her to her goal, which is to surf like World Champion Carissa Moore.  Yesterday morning, she finally figured out how to attack the lip like a pro.  Once she builds that muscle memory, her surfing is going to be powerful and stylish, just like Carissa.  

Daisuke-san is a very smart surfer.  He knows how to manage a lineup.  He knows not to drop in on other surfers, he knows not to get in anyones way, he knows how to paddle around back out, and he knows to go when I say “GO!”  I was yelling “GO” on this set of the day!  

Dr. Ryu-san likes a challenge.  So after a couple waves on the longboard, he looked at my board and said “can I try it?”  Well, he didn’t exactly say that, I could read his mind.  Haha.  So I let him try it and his first wave he popped up and rode this wave.  After that, I never got my board back until we got back to the beach.  

If you let a surfer try a magic board and he likes it, good luck getting it back.  Haha.  Dr. Ryu-san even told me that he’s going to take this board back to Japan.  If he does, I’m going to call the police!  Haha.