good evening. gosh, i thought the waves were coming down but i was wrong. pulled up to kewalo’s at lunch and the waves were going off. had some solid 5′ sets with only a few guys out. the right’s were firing and so where the medium size lefts. it’s the biggest waves i’ve surfed in a while. and the cool thing about it is that no groms around. everybody’s in california for the nationals so no hungry rats in the inside. tomorrow? same thing, go naminori….
**how’s this. i got an email to my youtube account notifying me that somebody has subscribed to my videos. so i checked who it was. the guys name is ken tanaka who lives in japan. ken makes some pretty awesome videos. it’s a funny way to remember japanese and i’ll try to use it next time i go to japan… check out this classic japanese lesson….
**i’m looking at the waves now. it’s 6:15pm and the winds died down and the whole south shore looks epic. still got another hour of light so get you ass out there….

good morning. 6:30am monday morning. still got some waves in town. see 20 guys out at bowls waiting for something. didn’t see a set yet but it’s probably head high. looking at lani’s now and there’s some small waves out there. got a couple guys out ripping up the waist high clean surf. light winds and pretty nice everywhere. still waiting for a set to roll in at bowls. there’s hardly any white water so i think it came down a lot. oh wait, just seen a 3′ set. that’s good enough for me. it’s the start of the work week so i better go to work. see you in the water….

did you watch the contest online? i did. and what i saw was some amazing surfing. the hawaiians were on fire and nobody could stop them. 1st place went to kekoa bacalso, 2nd to dustin barca, and 3rd went to joel centeio. in fact 5 out of the 8 quarter finalists were hawaiians so i watched every heat from then on….

kekoa was like the dark horse. not too many people know who he is and not too many people know he can surf. but this kid surfed better than anybody else in the whole event. he was on fire and taking down big names on the way to the final. then he peaked in the final and won the 6 star event. big contest? oh yeah…. i hope kekoa makes the WCT next year because there will be a lot of people saying “where the heck did this kid come from?” he’s that good. congrats kekoa….

and last, these two kids could win a big contest in the future too. surf contest of dive contest. check out the abalone and tako hand picked in japan. gosh, i wish i was there… shun, bring your mask and fins when you come to hawaii because we’re going diving. i’m taking you and seth 30′ underwater and you kids will feel so comfortable down there that you can jun ken po…. see ya soon….

good evening. went down to check the waves this morning. wasn’t as big as everybody was anticipating but good enough for me. overhead, sunny sky, warm water. what else can you ask for?

passed up big rights and went to meet up with photographer kondo-san for a morning photo session. had a good time surfing with shuji kasuya and nick mita. it was a beautiful day and the photos will probably be beautiful too. kondo-san’s photos are always beautiful….

they held the point panic bodysurfing championships yesterday and today. the waves? epic…. i was telling nick that we use to surf out there back in the days. in fact, we use to surf out there all the time. yeah, if you paddle out there with tony moniz, it’s cool. but if you paddle out there by yourself, you better run before a big hawaiian bodysurfer grabs your leash, head buts you, breaks off your fins, then sends you in. then once you get in, the police will arrest you and take your surfboard away. so i wouldn’t try it if i were you. or if you do, let me know so i can watch… haha… but really, i seen it all before and it ain’t pretty….

i got home from surfing around 10am. it was still a beautiful day so when my friend called me to go banana boat riding, i couldn’t resist. hook up my boat, launch from ala wai, check the surf on the way out, and have a blast in the ocean…

i passed by bowls, big rights, kewalo’s, and point panic twice. the waves didn’t look half as good as the morning. maybe that’s why there were only half the crowd as this morning. or is everybody surfed out? i don’t think so. not in hawaii…. anyway, this is big rights from the back….
**checked the waves this evening and looked like it came down a lot from this morning. seen head high sets at bowls with epic conditions right before dark…. tomorrow? don’t know. south shore is too hard to predict. you just have to check back in the morning… good night…