ohayo gozaimasu. 7am here in beautiful japan. gosh, was watching the news lastnight and tokyo side got hammered by the typhoon. it’s amazing how up there could be so wild when down here in shikoku was a picture perfect day. i’m going to relax today and go buy a new toy. see ya later…
this is how it all starts. step 1. do a dry run just like this. gosh, this is a classic photo. father and daughter totally bonding….
step 2. stand up and ride it as far as you can. this little girl is 7 years old and loving life…..
yusuke surfed the beginners division last year and got 2nd. this year, he surfed the open division and got 2nd. next year is his year to win. i’ll put money on that. yusuke just started surfing not too long ago and already knows how to grab rail. good job yusuke….
this is shizuoka local eigo-san. he surfs with power and rips. eigo charges waimea bay and big sunset beach. and he is also a great diver. surfer/diver? great combo….
imagine waiting on the inside and seeing the sets breaking like this on the outside. just wait 1 minute and you know it’s coming….
another snap from yusuke…..
**check out the barrels surf clinic gallery on GO.NAMINORI.COM….
More Barrels Photos…..
What goes up, Must come down….
good evening. the waves came up fast, and went down fast. checked kaifu yesterday in the evening and it was still out of control. solid 8′ +. had a blast at the barbecue with all the locals last night. well, as far as i can remember…. got some photos in my camera and i was laughing this morning because i don’t remember even taking them. anyway, got up at 5am expecting to surf 4-6′ perfect barrels. pulled up to the beach and it was chest high. oh my gosh!!! i can’t believe how fast the waves dropped and everybody there probably thought the same. anyway, typhoons over, going to wait for the next one. in the meantime, i’m taking a much needed vacation…. have a great evening….
can you believe this was yesterday? this spot was flat this morning. unbelievable….
The Land of the Rising Sun….
good morning. this is what i wake up to every morning in shikoku. this is why japan is “the land of the rising sun”…. here is kohei chiba heading out for an early morning session at his home spot…. and that’s where i’m heading to right now. have a nice day….
