good morning, 6:15am. the waves didn’t come up that much. 15 guys out at bowls with 4 guys sitting at the big bowl. looks headhigh, or the same size as yesterday. the park is packed. i see 70 guys scattered around like ants. probably no parking but i’m going down anyway. i just need one barrel to make my day. so once i get one, i’m out of there…. have a great father’s day….
**found this on youtube. bodyboarder vs. surfer. i thought this was a joke but i was real. freakin classic… surfers, longboarder, bodyboarders, and stand-up paddlers. can’t we all get along? it’s all about respect. if we respect one another, we can get along and share waves. just because you have a bigger board, that doesn’t mean you can paddle out and catch every wave from the outside. if that’s the case, i’m going to take my boat out to big rights and start doing off the lips on it. that wouldn’t be cool right? we had a talk about that topic yesterday at big rights and i still feel the same as most local surfers. i don’t give a shit who you are, if you show respect to everybody, your cool. if you want to be an ass and try to catch every wave, go home. there shouldn’t be any fights in the ocean or on the beach, i go there to relax. not to see shit like this. if you want to fight, go lock yourself in your car and start punching yourself in the face. now that’s pretty cool…

good evening. gosh, what a wonderful day. surfed big rights this morning. smaller and less waves than yesterday. but you know what? i had fun. got a few good waves which was enough for me. on the way home, i was looking at the mountains and the weather was just perfect to go exploring. so exploring it was. i headed to this secret mountain and i was pretty excited because i haven’t been up there in 10 years or so. they blocked it off so nobody can hike up there, but i knew how to get around…

this is the sign that’s blocking the trail. look close and see the bullet holes? yeah, the guy living up there shoots people that trespass. and if he misses, he sends his 3 pit bulls on your ass. you have to knock on his gate 3 times, whistle once, leave a case of heineken’s, and one more thing for him to let you in. and that thing, i ain’t telling you. but once you get in, your in a place where no one else goes. jungle baby….

so here i am with my camera shooting away. the trail is hardly used so it’s easy to get lost up there. and easy to fall off the side of the mountain. i fell 8 times, once almost off the mountain. yeah, if it wasn’t for the tree that i hit on the way down, i would have been history. it was scary, but at the same time, funny as shit….

the view is spectacular. green, green, and green. enough green to make you think green… 10 years ago, i remembered this hike being 20 minutes. so 20 minutes went by, then another 20 minutes, then another. i was almost ready to turn around 2 times but i knew what was at the end so i just kept on going…. tired, sweaty, thirsty, but kept going….

and this is why…. this secret mountain has 7 waterfalls and this one is my favorite. it’s about 50′ high with a pool on the bottom. and the best thing about it? not a single soul around….

people think i’m a townie because i live in town. little do they know, nature is just a walk away for me. does this look like town to you??? i don’t think so…

this is one for the album…. today was such an awesome day. some surf, and some nature. what more can you ask for? nothing…
**by the way, the 20min hike i remembered ended up being 2 and a half hours. one way!! i’m freakin tired.. the birds chirping and the sounds of the trees blowing in the wind. that’s the only thing in my mind right now. goodnight…
**by by the way, the waves looked good this evening. tomorrow morning, dawn patrol. i might have to bust the boat out….

good morning. 6:30am saturday morning. been watching the waves for 20 minutes and didn’t see a set yet. got 5 guys out at the big bowl so there must be some solid sets. everywhere is packed. i see 40 guys out at bowls and 60-70 guys out at the park already. sunny skies, light off shore winds, and a high surf advisory. i’m out of here…. oh, just seen an overhead set. see ya….

i went to the ala wai yacht club yesterday to check out my friend robbie. robbie is the port master at the ala wai harbor so he’s pretty much the man down there. he was showing me around the harbor and took me on a ride out to check the waves. robbie was once a photographer for the national football league, an x-marine, and has pretty much been there, done it all. he works with tony at faith surf school and is down at waikiki every day. a good family friend and a super cool guy…..

then we drove up and down the harbor checking out boats. i learned so much about boats yesterday. i think i’m ready to own a yacht…. haha…
anyway, i had my camera in my pocket so figure i’d use it to show you the waves. bowls was high tide so it wasn’t that good. i bet it’s going to be a lot better today… check out some waves from yesterday….