good morning. 6:30am wednesday morning. waves came down in the country but still some small left over 1-2′ sets. town is knee/waist high. wind swell so diamond head probably is the best. a little windy but if you know where to go, you can surf head high surf by yourself. bowls has 6 surfers out and it looks pretty slow. pretty slow sounds good… that’s what i’m doing today…. enjoy…
**yesterday was such a peaceful day. it felt so good free diving and laying on the bottom looking up at the sun rays shining down. i wish i can run away and live underwater for a week or so. seen a lot of fish, turtles, and this manta ray was following us around. i know there were sharks around but glad i didn’t see them. you know the feeling? the feeling of something watching you? yeah, i know some of the big boys were checking me out with the bloody dead fish hanging on my weight belt… yikes….

we dove into the sunset. haven’t done that in a while. gosh, life is good….

i took my brand new lens and water housing out to test it. i wanted to make sure everything was working so i took this first shot of kelia taking off. after i looked through the viewer, i was super stoked to see this photo focused super sharp…. from then on, i just blasted away…. i love digital…

i remember the first time kelia did this. it was late last year. now, she got it wired… i’m going to try to do one too…. hope i don’t break my ankle….

after we came in, i was checking out these hawaiian plants on the side of the road. thought it was pretty cool so i took a photo. looks fake yeah? but it’s real….

good evening. since i came back to hawaii, i surfed, surfed, and surfed. today, i went diving. the water was dirty, and the conditions weren’t ideal. but i had to get into the underwater world. called up shawn and before we knew it, we were on my boat suiting up. i went down about 40 times today, the deepest being 45′. and every time i was down on the bottom, i was just thinking about how much i missed diving. my body feels clean, my mind is clear, and i have fresh fish to last me the whole week….

all top quality fish. not bad for 2 guys. i’m going to the supermarket to pick up some ginger, onions, and black bean sauce. my mouth is watering already….
**keiko leaves tomorrow. that’s a bummer. i drove by bowls on my boat 2 times today to say bye to her. but she wasn’t out there. so just wanted to say bye now. have a safe flight back to japan and keep on surfing!!! until we meet again….

last friday night was keiko’s sayonara party. after 7 years of living in hawaii and surfing bowls everyday, keiko’s going back to japan. yeah, keiko is the chick with the white wetsuit that rips bowls lefts and rights. she became like family to all the local surfers out there and it’s going to be pretty sad not seeing her in the lineup everyday. but i’m sure keiko will be back someday…. right keiko? right….

the party was down at jun’s automotive shop in kakaako. the food was crazy good. so much japanese food and local food mixed. gosh, i kept on eating and eating…

i forgot who, but somebody busted out this amazing sashimi platter. gosh, i felt like i was in japan….

not only had good food, had choke chicks too…. team japan in hawaii. these girls are pretty much locals here in hawaii. if you make trouble to any one of them, your going to have to deal with all the boys. and that won’t be fun… this is yuka, maki, yuko, yuki, keiko, and akoi…. all cool surfer chicks…

like maki-san’s cell phone ring tone goes. “It’s Ladies Night”…. oh yeah, what a night….

more cool chicks… jeannie chesser is one of the coolest chicks you’ll ever meet. she’s really nice, super funny, and doesn’t take shit from anybody. i like that… and trisha on the right surfs bowls too. i’ve seen her out at bowls many times before but this was the first time i met her. now i’m happy because i can drop in. haha…

and last, i like this photo because it shows the real reid. not the reid that snaps for people dropping in on him. but the classic funny reid that just says anything he pleases. i really like guys like reid that take care of the japanese and make them feel comfortable here in hawaii. that’s the aloha spirit!!
**gosh, had a blast at that party and when keiko comes back, we got to do it all over again…. good luck keiko and hurry on back to hawaii….

good morning. 7am tuesday morning. north shore got up to 5′ yesterday with spots like rocky’s and laniakea going off. it came down today but still surfable. the south swell is pretty much done. got some leftover waist high sets at bowls. perfect for longboarding. not too many surfers out right now. i see only 3. it’s going to be another beautiful sunny day here so get out and enjoy… have a nice day….
**check out more photos from yesterday….

this kid had inside queens all to himself. i though he was some beginner kid from japan or something but when he stood up, he ripped the shit out of this wave. i was impressed….

there are some tattoo’s i like, and there are some tattoo’s i don’t like. these i like…. check out the hawaiian islands on her shoulder and the hula girl on her back. pretty cool….

kelia is the easiest surfer to shoot. she’s just super photogenic. every time i shoot her, i always get 2 or 3 sick ones. i like this one the best from yesterday’s session…. and check out how perfect the waves were…

after a good early morning surf session, everybody goes home happy….