Round 1:  Iijima-san charging this early morning.  Super nice guy and great surfer!

Morning session was head high and perfect conditions.  Golden sunrise and light offshore winds.

First time Hawaii, and first time surfing in Hawaii.  Iijima-san got lucky!  

Round 2:  The hurricane swell came up fast.  Big overhead sets and strong offshore winds.  It felt like a Japanese Typhoon swell!  

Hashimoto-san was BRAVEHEART today!  He caught the biggest wave of his life, and also dove under many biggest waves of his life.  Building confidence.

My sudachi tree is in peak season.

Sudachi over fish, sudachi over everything!  It reminds me of Shikoku.

Yesterdays “Wave of the Day.”  Perfection!

Good morning 3am.
Hurricane swell coming later today.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds 20mph this morning becoming stronger later.
Sunny with warm wind.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Head high Bowls with another perfect sunrise.  There are 2 hurricanes approaching Hawaii so stay tuned for some wild waves and weather changes.

Mighty Mouse on the 6’2 Tokoro step up.  Getting ready for the big days ahead.

Rocky has been hunting for bigger and better waves.  This one was a bigger and better one of the morning.

I came in for a break to drink water and watch the rainbow.  Then straight back out.

Round 2:  Uchida-san has only been surfing for a short while.  It’s pretty amazing on how good she’s gotten so quickly.  A very good listener and knows how to enjoy the ride.

Round 3:  I get a text today at 1pm, “Kirby, the waves are big so is it possible to surf somewhere else?”  So I checked the waves, the tides, the winds, and crowds.  I see a golden opportunity!!!  I pick up Hashimoto-san and we go straight to that golden opportunity.

OMG, the waves were EPIC!!!  The longest and best point right on the island today.  There were only 4 other surfers out.  One of the Uncles was my friend and said “hey, you guys go on any wave you want, I want to share the stoke!”  Hashimoto-san felt the “stoke” today!   I want to thank the Uncle for teaching us the meaning of “ALOHA.”

This is by far the happiest surfer in the world today!

Going to sauna and sleep.  See you tomorrow for more pre-hurricane action!