Yesterday once more:  Hurricane swells arrived in the afternoon.  Hawaiian 5′ and crazy!  So good!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana head high sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Iijima-san charging this early morning.  Super nice guy and great surfer!

Morning session was head high and perfect conditions.  Golden sunrise and light offshore winds.

First time Hawaii, and first time surfing in Hawaii.  Iijima-san got lucky!  

Round 2:  The hurricane swell came up fast.  Big overhead sets and strong offshore winds.  It felt like a Japanese Typhoon swell!  

Hashimoto-san was BRAVEHEART today!  He caught the biggest wave of his life, and also dove under many biggest waves of his life.  Building confidence.

My sudachi tree is in peak season.

Sudachi over fish, sudachi over everything!  It reminds me of Shikoku.

Yesterdays “Wave of the Day.”  Perfection!

Good morning 3am.
Hurricane swell coming later today.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds 20mph this morning becoming stronger later.
Sunny with warm wind.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!