Glass On’s and Layback’s

21

I pulled out a 20 year old Mike Woo out from under my house.  These are the days before FCS and Future fins were invented.  That’s when surfboards were so simple.  

I learned how to rebuild the tilt/trim and motor while the boat is in the water.  You’re going to have to hang upside down like a monkey but if you need it changed, that’s the only way because no mechanic on the island will fix it for you.  After doing it a couple of times, it’s pretty easy.  

Time to scrub the bottom of Mayuki.  The best exercise for breathing and keeping calm.  

The winter months are here so the winds should stop soon.  And when it does, I’m going island hopping.  Everything is ready to go!

About 10 years ago, I caught my biggest tako in Waikiki.  I haven’t seen anything of that size ever since.

Wave Runners and dirt bikes.  That’s the island lifestyle.

Thank you again Neal Miyake for the photos from Bowls.  Trust is everything.

I’ve been practicing the “layback” barrel ride.  The view looking back into the barrel is pretty cool.  I hardly use to make these barrels back in the 1980’s but I’m making most of them now.  So stoked!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide