check out this turtle with artificial legs. this turtle got stuck in a fisherman net in japan and now has new legs and is swimming in an aquarium near kobe. cool story!

well, windy weather keeps on going. the left is laniakea and the right is pipeline. i couldn’t even tell the difference. i was just ugly on the north shore all day long. just super blown out! not good for surfing and not good for diving. good for cleaning so i was cleaning all day long. i’m learning how to throw away junks and if i do another swap meet sale, i’m going to be rich!
*i’m so far behind in emails, but not this far behind. i did a blog responding to a few emails and i forgot to post it. gomenasai! anyway, better late than never.
*Hey Y-san from Osaka, I had fun surfing with you in Hawaii. I’m happy you went to eat at Marutaya, my favorite ramen shop in Wakayama. I’m glad you enjoyed it and hope to see you again. Keep on surfing!
*To Masashi-sam from Okinawa, I hope you’re ok in Okinawa. Did you surf the typhoon? Thanks for coming to Hawaii and surfing with me. Mensore and Aloha! See you again!
*To Mr. and Mrs. Tomita from Shizuoka, Thank you for your kind email. It really means a lot to me. I am really happy that you enjoyed your surf trip to Hawaii. I’m sorry about your bad experience at Kaisers the next day. If I was with you, I would have defended you for sure. I hope your next localism experience is one with a smile. Don’t let one local ruin your time in Hawaii. Most locals are kind and welcome Japanese. Please keep on surfing and please keep on smiling!
*To Fujimoto-san from Osaka, Thank you for the book you sent me called “Tadao Ando.” I really enjoyed looking at it and will let my friends in Hawaii also look at it. Was it you I took a photo of and posted it on my blog? The green, white, and red longboard at Kaifu? What a small world! Thanks for checking out my blog. See you in Shikoku!

Thank you Ryota!

wow, just got emails from Kimura-san and Matsu last night. they just came back from the Mentawai’s and it seems like they had a good time. let’s check out some of the photos PHOTOGRAPHER JOHN BARTON took of the boys.

this is Kimura-san at Burger World? it looks like Burger World because of the amazing background. glad to see Kimura-san charging BIG!

i practically forced Kimura-san to take a board i had that i thought would work well for him on bigger waves. it went from hawaii to japan to mentawai and i’m glad he used it.

Mr. Bintang! Bagus! good waves is good beer.

Kimura-san getting barreled? OMG! Hey Papa, you still getting barreled at 60 years old? Unreal! You have a good life yeah? haha.

And nice bottom turn too. this must be E-Bay?

i’m glad you finally got to experience Mentawai’s. now next time, we are going to charter a boat and you are coming for sure! more waves and more bintangs!

last year Matsu asked me to pick up a gun for him from hawaii. i took it to japan, he took it to thailand, then now using it in the mentawai’s. i guess it works yeah? hey Matsu, good job on the sashimi. i wish i was there!

nice cutback Papa.

nice wave Matsu.

is this Kosei-san?

nice barrel Matsu.

ok, i’m actually jealous now. i wish i was there too. why? not for the waves, not for the fish, but for the experience. my Papa Kimura-san and my Brother Matsu needed a trouble maker like me and i’m sure they missed me. haha. next time, i’m going for sure! and next time, i’m making a lot of noise and trouble. haha.
hey Matsu, thanks for taking care of my 60 year old Papa. i know it was hard work. haha. but i was so happy to see these amazing photos of him having a great time. i’ll skype you tomorrow for the rest of the stories.
and Papa, good job! i’m proud of you surfing big hollow waves and even getting barreled. i’m sure when you were paddling for the waves, you could hear my voice yelling “GO, GO, GO, GO, GO!!!!!!” take some good rest, enjoy your life, and see you in wakayama.
PHOTOS BY JOHN BARTON