The Road to a Monk.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and side shore.
Waikiki knee high and very calm.
Small 2′ South swell starts tomorrow till Friday.
Trade winds 20mph in the morning becoming 30mph this afternoon. Clouds, showers, sun, and rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Monthly Archives: April 2014
April 14, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Nagoya Jet Coaster
i had such a great time today. took Eiko-san and Maya-san surfing this morning. Maya-san called me before i left my house and asked me “is it ok to surf today? the wind and rain?” haha. there was heavy rain and super winds this morning but it doesn’t matter when you’re in the ocean. so i told her “yeah, it’s ok, let’s go!” i thought it was funny because she was asking a guy that surfs in typhoons if it was ok. haha. anyway, we pull up to the beach and nobody was there! only us storm surfers as we had such a great time. these 2 girls kept me laughing so hard all morning long. and i was super stoked to see them catch so many good waves. thank you Chobo-san from The Shop for sending these 2 wonderful girls my way.
the winds were already strong in the morning but became twice as strong in the afternoon. Team Ina and I paddled out to Rockpiles Rights as nobody was out. the wind picked up, the waves were barreling, and it actually got a little dangerous. taking off was a challenge! i seen Yuki-san take off, the wind caught her nose, and she actually was flying in the air! omg! after that, we decided to paddle in. it was a rough session with lots to be learned. we were all exhausted by the wind, current, and adrenaline. i’m just glad nobody go hurt today.
on the way back to the Nagoya airport, we decided to pull over at the worlds craziest amusement park. i pass by here all the time and refuse to go.
i gave in and decided to go, but i didn’t promise anybody that i was riding anything. this roller coaster is crazy!!!!
then i seen people screaming in the air? omg, that’s crazy!!!! i would never ever ride that!
Saito-san and I didn’t want anything to do with that roller coaster so Kosei-san, Kanae-san, and Naoka rode it without us. someday? i don’t think so.
it’s called The Steel Dragon 2000.
i’m not sure why people don’t have heart attacks on this ride.
anyway, i end up going to the craziest theme park in the world and refuse to ride anything. why? because i’m scared! i haven’t been on a roller coaster in 25 years and i don’t think i will ever go on one for the rest of my life. so everybody please stop trying to get me on one!
more windy weather for the next 2 days. as for me, i’m still going surfing!
Great Sportsmanship = Great Champion
i’ve been watching the isa world championships early in the mornings for the past 8 days. cheering for japan, hawaii, and my 2 nephews Josh and Seth. yesterday was heartbreaking for me. i was yelling in front of my computer cheering Seth on, then watched as he made a huge mistake. a mistake i’ve made about 100 times in my competition days.
Seth was leading the heat with time running out. then he got super aggressive and did a paddle battle with the italian surfer and got an interference. that put him into 4th place in a snap. i saw it happen and knew the judges were going to call an interference on him. i was super bummed, but at the same time, thought it was fair. Japan’s Takumi Nakamura ended up winning the heat so i was very happy for that.
this was a right so the surfer with the inside position has priority. Seth is in white and should have pulled back. they made contact so they had to call the interference on him.
going from 1st to 4th in the last minutes of the heat hurts. Seth showed his emotions on his last wave. his dream of becoming ISA World Champion was gone. bummer.
this loss will make Seth stronger and smarter. when he comes back to hawaii, all i’m going to tell him is “good job boy!” i know he is hurting inside and doesn’t want to hear yet another person telling him “what the hell where you thinking???” but what really impressed me was right after his heat, he was back on the beach cheering on for Noah Mizuno that was competing in the next heat. it was great sportsmanship which i think is the key to becoming a great champion.
and after that, they had the team challenge which Hawaii won! so congratulations to the Hawaiian Team for winning the GOLD!
