Natures Umbrella and a very smart Mr. Frog.
Good morning 5:45am.
Bowls chest high and crowded already. 12 surfers out.
Diamond Head head high and going to be really crowded too.
No wind so perfect glassy morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and maybe some heavy rain coming.
More heavy rain this weekend.
Going surfing all day again!
Have a wonderful day!

i had such a wonderful full day surfing with Hashiguchi-san. a very interesting guy. born in brazil and raised in japan. cool mix! anyway, we surfed for 6 hours!!!! omg, my face is so burnt that it might fall off tonight. i was super happy to see him getting better wave by wave. Hashiguchi-san never did a cutback in his life but after practicing today, he was cutbacking all over the place. morning was crowded so we surfed in the middle and stayed away from everybody. then this afternoon, bowls was empty!! the waves were head high and super fun! Hashiguchi-san was going right, i was going left. after we came in late this evening, we both agreed that we were two totally satisfied surfers! MANZOUKU!!!

and hungry surfers need lots of food so we went to eat at my favorite mexican restaurant in the world. enchilada plate with green spicy sauce, rice, and beans. so full but so happy! oh, get this story. Hashiguchi-san came to hawaii yesterday. he was in the elevator going up to his room and the whole waikiki had a power outage. all of a sudden it stopped and it was pitch black! he was in there for 10min and nobody came, no lights came on, and all alone. so he pried open the elevator door, it was stuck between floors, he climbed out, went down 10 floors of stairs, then went back up 24 floors back to his room. i’m sure he won’t forget that experience. haha.

i’m proud to say that Waikiki Beach came out #1 for the best beach in the united states of america. where else is more beautiful than this????
here is the rest of the list:
Dr. Beach’s Top 10 Beaches 2014
1. Duke Kahanamoku Beach
Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii
2. Barefoot Beach
Bonita Springs, Florida
3. St. George Island State Park
Florida panhandle
4. Waimanalo Bay Beach Park
Oahu, Hawaii
5. Hamoa Beach
Maui, Hawaii
6. Cape Hatteras
Outer Banks of North Carolina
7. Cape Florida State Park
Key Biscayne, Florida
8. Coast Guard Beach
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
9. Beachwalker Park
Kiawah Island, South Carolina
10. Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park
Naples, Florida

MEET MR. STAN: Stan turned 78 years old in Panama. Stan is a veteran free diver who’s been all around the world. he was living in hawaii at the start of world war II when the japanese bombed pearl harbor. he was telling me the story of where he was when the first bombs were dropping. it was pretty chilling. Stan is a man you must respect. traveling around the world spearing fish on one breath. waking up in panama every morning at 5am, going on the boat all day long till 5:30pm, and still lots of energy left. happy birthday again Stan! keep on diving!

MEET MR. OPIHI: 15 years ago, i use to go to my secret spot picking opihi, or also known as hawaiian abalone. i’d take a big bag and fill it up with about a hundred or so. as the years passed, they started to disappear. my bad. these days, my vision on how i feel about the ocean has changed a lot. i don’t take more than i need. i spear a fish or two and call it a day. yesterday, i pulled up to my secret spot with hundreds of opihi everywhere. i jump in, dive down 5′, take 15 opihi, and go home. now i am much wiser when it comes to the ocean and its resources. and now i know that the opihi will still be there when i go back there. please dive smart!

if you look at the top of this opihi, you can tell that it’s been living for a long time. and if you never tried this before, you don’t know what you’re missing.

MEET MR. WEATHER: heavy rain for the next 5 days! omg, big storm coming this weekend. another south swell coming too so get ready for some storm sessions! i love it!