I’m going to Tohoku!
Monthly Archives: July 2014
Explore Japan!
Back to One
Sugimoto-san took me diving a few times in wakayama and he’s always been so nice to me. he’s a very experienced local fisherman that goes out into the sea everyday. when i was in wakayama, he offered me something in a bag.
it was a bag of fresh fish he just caught. experiencing things like this in japan is so precious. the people are the kindest and most giving in the world. it’s amazing how the act of giving can make people so happy.
while i was surfing in shikoku, the air rescue came over us surfers to see what the heck we were doing in the water during a typhoon.
then the police boat came out to double check. i’m sure they where thinking “surfers are stupid.” haha. but in reality, we aren’t stupid. we just know how to enjoy life, nature, and know how to have a good time searching for that perfect wave. you can call it “stupid,” but i call it “passion.”
i started reading this book called The Old Man and the Sea by Ernest Hemingway. i’m only in the beginning but i’m hooked! i love books that has to do with the sea. i can’t wait to finish it.
it’s been over 3 years and 4 months since the tsunami/earthquake/radiation disaster in tohoku. it’s something i will never forget. i’m going back up there today and hopefully see more and more progression. and like always, i have very mixed emotions. emotions i have a hard time explaining to anyone. and it’s hard to get all these images out of my mind.
Japan Rail Pass to Heaven!
i used my japan rail pass for the first time today. it’s good for 7 days unlimited use. it was so easy walking onto any train i desired. from wakayama, it took 4 different trains and 5 hours of traveling time to get to where i wanted to go. so easy with this pass. no need waiting in long lines anymore.
$276 or 29,010 yen for a 7 day pass. you can only get them before you enter the country so if you come from hawaii, go to HIS and pick up your pass to heaven! i would totally recommend this to every tourist coming here because it’s the cheapest way to see japan.
i got some bose noise canceling headphones as a gift and i love it! you can’t hear other noise than what you are listening too. so amazing!
while i was scoring waves this morning down west, Toda-san and Takami-san were scoring some good waves too a few hours away. it’s times like this when i wish i could be 2 places at the same time. do you think it’s possible to be in 2 barrels at the same time?
i am traveling with the best quiver right now. all made by TSSC and all magic! for any given day or wave, i’m pretty much ready!
back to this morning. after scoring awesome waves in shikoku yesterday, i thought to myself that everything after that is a bonus. look at the bonus i pulled up to this morning. i thought i was in the mentawai’s!!! overhead barrels!
and to paddle out at first light, glassy conditions, good waves, perfect light, and awesome waves. i was in the exact place i wanted to be.
i try very hard to get photos of my friends any chance i have. this one was my best fisheye shot from this morning. Kimura-san is 62 years old and putting his short board fully on the rail! he even got barreled this morning too! look how beautiful this photo is! another secret spot i swear not to tell anyone about.
back side off the lip. feels so good! i was thinking to myself again as i was riding the train, “wow, this surf trip is awesome! i’m just at the right place at the right time. i’m so lucky to have such good friends all over japan placing me in the right spot all the time. yes, i travel alone, but when i show up to places, i’m never alone because my friends show up from everywhere. i’m a very lucky surfer!”
going sleep early because i have a super long day tomorrow. can’t wait to visit more and more friends as i continue to use my Japan Rail Pass to Heaven!
