Sugimoto-san took me diving a few times in wakayama and he’s always been so nice to me. he’s a very experienced local fisherman that goes out into the sea everyday. when i was in wakayama, he offered me something in a bag.
it was a bag of fresh fish he just caught. experiencing things like this in japan is so precious. the people are the kindest and most giving in the world. it’s amazing how the act of giving can make people so happy.
while i was surfing in shikoku, the air rescue came over us surfers to see what the heck we were doing in the water during a typhoon.
then the police boat came out to double check. i’m sure they where thinking “surfers are stupid.” haha. but in reality, we aren’t stupid. we just know how to enjoy life, nature, and know how to have a good time searching for that perfect wave. you can call it “stupid,” but i call it “passion.”
i started reading this book called The Old Man and the Sea by Ernest Hemingway. i’m only in the beginning but i’m hooked! i love books that has to do with the sea. i can’t wait to finish it.
it’s been over 3 years and 4 months since the tsunami/earthquake/radiation disaster in tohoku. it’s something i will never forget. i’m going back up there today and hopefully see more and more progression. and like always, i have very mixed emotions. emotions i have a hard time explaining to anyone. and it’s hard to get all these images out of my mind.
