Welcome to China!
Good morning 6am.
Small surf today.
North shore chest high and windy.
South shore waist high and windy.
Cleanest waves at Ala Moana.
Strong trade winds at 20-30mph.
Showers, sun, and rainbows.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

had a wonderful morning with Mr. and Mrs. Nomura-san. i’ve been surfing with this wonderful couple for the past few years and i’m super stoked to see them getting better and better. the waves were so perfect for us this morning!

then we got to hungry so went to eat a healthy sandwich followed by shave ice. i felt so sleepy after that.

then went back to surf in the afternoon with some hard core surfers. ended up surfing 2 rounds for a total of 6 hours. i’m so burnt! but so happy too!

just wanted to take a photo of the sea urchins we have here in hawaii. it’s different than the ones in japan. if you step on this, you will scream. it’s like a hundred needles just poked you. and the bummer thing is you can’t pull them out because it’s too brittle. the only way is to melt it out with vinegar or your own piss. so here’s my advice: do not walk on the reef!!!!
anyway, another full surfing day tomorrow and everyday for the rest of the week. so happy life!

check out my first ever wave surfing in the caribbean! cancun, mexico to be exact. i was out in the ocean all alone enjoying the pristine emerald warm water. then my mexico amigo Satoko took this photo of my first wave. i love it!

look at this photo really good. when i uploaded it off my camera, i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was! swimming in the cenote was freaking amazing! the water so clean that you can drink it. here is the mexican mermaid swimming in peace. Satoko is the best diving guide in the world scuba or free dive, she will take you to places that will blow your mind. cancun is definitely a place i’ll visit again. surf, dive, and friends. can’t beat that!

in order for you to rent a 2 bedroom place in honolulu, you have to be making at least $73,320/year. that is 8998197 yen per year. so hawaii has become the most expensive place in american to rent. unbelievable! now you know why there are so many homeless?

want to hear another crazy american story? this is a cruise ship that comes to hawaii.

this man right her just walked into the glass door. no, the door didn’t jump up and hit him, he actually walked into the door because he wasn’t looking. he said it hurt so bad that he still has headaches. he sued the company and won $21M!!!! omg!!! that’s 2576185500 japanese yen! welcome to america. stories like this is the very reason why i stopped watching the news. so sad.