Jump!
Good morning 6am.
North shore chest high and windy.
South shore waist high.
Ala Moana clean offshore.
Diamond Head windy side shore.
Trade winds at 20-30mph.
Sun, showers, rainbows.
Surfing all day!
See you in the water!

gosh, it was another beautiful day!!! surfed some super fun waves this morning. it was so clean and perfect. south shore should be going to sleep soon as the north shore will awaken. kind of sad that our dream endless summer is coming to an end. but don’t give up! there might be some more south swells on the way. just wait and see.

spent the evening in hawaii kai watching the sunset. it was so beautiful!

then came home and ate a Yamari shirasu salad. omg, so good!

then i spent some time playing with my grand nephew. he had a blast putting stickers all over me. haha.

i didn’t know kids eyes can be this round??? so cute! i just love this kid!

ok, back in 1994, a lady drove through the drive thru at mcdonalds. bought a coffee and burnt her leg going over the speed bump. she sued and got $2.9M. then last year, another lady got burnt doing the same thing. now she is suing mcdonalds of california and expect this settlement to exceed $3M. welcome to the crazy part of american i don’t really care for. in fact, it’s pretty embarrassing.

wow, woke up to another day of south swells. the waves were super fun this morning and very uncrowded. so stoked to catch some good waves. and so stoked to see Carissa Moore out ripping it up. she’s practicing for the last event later this month. the biggest contest of the year as she leads the woman’s ratings. i asked her “so how you feeling going into the last event?” she said “i feel good. and feel anxious.” then she caught a wave and did 5 off the lips. if i were a judge, i’d have given her a perfect 10 points for that ride. the girl is on fire and on her way to another world title.

free ride?

the reason why there are so many homeless in hawaii these days is because of rising costs, low wages, and limited land. when i was growing up as a kid in hawaii, there would only be a handful of homeless people now, there are thousands. and the problem is only going to get worst because there is no solution. nobody wants to leave hawaii and i don’t blame them.

since it’s been raining recently, the grass has been growing super fast. so fast that the city and county can’t keep up on maintenance. so we have some people complaining as usual. how could you complain about the green grass being too tall? gosh, don’t people have better things to do than complain? so one solution the city came up with is installing artificial grass on the sidewalks and other places. that is pretty sad to see where our future is going. very sad.

uber is in full swing here in hawaii and over most parts of the world. uber drivers are raping customers, uber drivers are breaking into houses, and uber drivers are getting assaulted. so many uber problems recently. a great concept but is it really safe? well, the other night i was drinking tequila with Holli and the boys. it was time to go home and Holli called uber. we waited until the driver pulled up. i ran over to the passenger door, opened it, and said “hey you, you better get my friend home safe!” luckily she was a girl driver. she looked at me and seemed super scared! than i woke up the next morning thinking “what if the driver was a man?” then for sure i wouldn’t have let Holli get in the car. i just don’t trust the system and some of the drivers.