one more time! i love hawaii!

check out old hawaii in the 1920’s. diamond head untouched!

and check out this photo from tantalus. no hotels, no street lights, no nothing. gosh, i wish i could go back to these days and live the simple life. live off the land and love thy neighbors.

now fast forward to current hawaii. so dangerous that you have to hide your own car keys in a lockbox.

and even that isn’t guaranteed. my friend Kevin Kamakura parked his truck at ala moana beach park. went surfing for a little while and came in to see just this lock box on the ground. his truck was gone!!! welcome to new hawaii.

Tonight @ 6:30-7:30!
Good morning 6:40am.
North shore clean 2-4′ and very good.
South shore waist high and clean. Diamond Head best.
Light trade winds at 5mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

look who’s home! my beautiful niece Kelia Moniz! check her out at the quiksilver store tomorrow night from 6:30-7:30pm. see you there!

thank you Satoshi Kubota for the super good dashi! i love it!

had to pull Mayuki out of the water so took a last dip this morning. went into the water watching this little rainbow on the horizon. it was beautiful.

then 20 minutes later i get out of the water and see the most amazing rainbow right in front of me! wow!

riding a boat and enjoying is the easy part. this is the behind the scenes part of the maintenance that has to be done to keep beautiful, beautiful.

want to thank Reid the bus driver for helping me out today. couldn’t have done it without him.

you wouldn’t believe how big Mayuki is out of the water. she’s a giant!

i seen this article about people in argentina taking a wild baby dolphin out of the water and started to take selfies. unbelievably stupid!

and of course, the dolphin would die. unbelievably stupid. if i was there, i would have shot the people doing this with my speargun. so sad.