OMG, I miss Japan!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 2-4′ and bumpy.
South shore waist to chest high wind swell. Clean offshore. East side big and onshore.
Strong trade winds at 30-40mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time this morning with Nakamoto-san. we’ve surfed so many times together and i can’t even count how many waves he catches when we surf. he just keeps on going and going! wave after wave after wave.

and he’s catching good waves too. nobody around us so no roadblocks ahead. lucky day!

i just caught a couple of waves and walked to the nose on this one. so stoked my long boarding is improving. feeling pretty comfortable up there.

another day at boot camp. haha. i’m riding on the side yelling directions. look up! bend your knees! go this way! go that way! smile! haha.

great time surfing with you this morning Nakamoto-san! see you in hawaii or wakayama!

one of my favorite charsiu restaurants was closed today so we went to my second favorite charsiu restaurant.

this was Nakamoto-san’s plate. charsiu and mabotofu. looked so good!

i ate the roast pork and black bean squid. it was awesome!

i’m glad you liked it! and i can’t believe you ate the whole plate! and shave ice right after too. haha.

then went straight back out to surf from 2pm to 6:20pm. i surfed for 7 hours today and came in very satisfied. today was yet another picture perfect day in hawaii. then some guy with a yellow ferrari pulled up to watch the sunset. i thought to myself “get out my way! you’re blocking my sunset!” haha.

last night went walking down waikiki on valentines day. seen this cool artist entertaining the crowd of tourists. so cool to see local artists chasing their dreams. i know how that feels because i’m still chasing my dreams too! one day we will all get there if we work hard and believe in ourselves! dreams come true!

Wow! Look at the sunset now! I surfed 7 hours today!!!