2016 Surfing History: Eddie Went!

February 26, 2016

when i went to sleep last night, i was 95% sure the Eddie would go. then when i woke up this morning at 6am, i checked the buoy, winds, charts, and knew they had to run it. yes, it might be too big, but that’s what all the competitors want. right?

and i also knew the swell will wrap around in town so i cancelled my work this morning. i had 2 beginners and next week is looking much better so next week it is. check out ala moana this morning. going off!
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as soon as the contest started, i was glued to my tv. the reason why i didn’t drive out to the north shore to watch it live is because i wanted to see replay after replay. i use to go out to watch the contest live, but now it’s much better online.
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i was rooting for Wakita! super stoked to see him charging super hard! check out this huge wave he caught! sick!
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then the close out sets came. it’s amazing how good the hawaiian lifeguards are. simply the best in the world.

it’s like watching a movie or something. there were thousands of people that went to watch the contest. i heard half of the high school kids skipped school, and i know hundreds of friends who called in sick to work. haha.
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to me, this was the biggest wave of the day. unbelievable!
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Wakita and John John Florence. sharing is caring.
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for all you employers and teachers, want to know where your employees and students were today? i know, they were at the bay! haha.
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congratulations to John John Florence for the biggest win a surfer could ever dream of.
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and thank you to the late Brock Little for sending this historic swell. all the boys were charging hard for you! and wanted to let you know that you still hold the world record for biggest barrel ever rode at waimea bay. i bet you’re stoked on that.

H-3: The Happy Road Home

February 26, 2016

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it’s been the best winter season in hawaii ever since i can remember. just perfect sunny warm days continue.

and to get these kind of perfect waves in february is very rare. check out Jerry on the nose.

Goki-san waiting for the perfect wave.

and me catching some perfect waves myself.
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so many happy faces in the water. it’s a playground for everyone!

this is perfect diamond head. this was yesterday and there will be many more days like this.

this is Mayuki. and this is as perfect as a boat can get. i took her out of the water 6 days ago. sent her to the beauty salon, got her a facial, a nice massage, a pedicure, and now she’s looking like more then the queen she already was.

i’ll say this over and over because this is very important to me. if you love something, take care of her. because if you take care of her, she will take care of you.

have you ever walked down a street and seen the most beautiful thing you ever saw? you probably seen Mayuki. haha. i was towing her back to the harbor yesterday and everybody was checking her out. even i was checking her out in my mirror.

then drove to kailua to drop off the trailer my friend let me borrow. i backed it in perfectly.

then as i took the H-3 to come back to town, i felt a huge relief all of a sudden. this was such a huge project for me. the planning, the people involved, the time, the sweat, the money, and the tears. it felt so satisfying and couldn’t be a happier man. can’t wait to ride my baby!