2016 Surfing History: Eddie Went!

501

when i went to sleep last night, i was 95% sure the Eddie would go. then when i woke up this morning at 6am, i checked the buoy, winds, charts, and knew they had to run it. yes, it might be too big, but that’s what all the competitors want. right?
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and i also knew the swell will wrap around in town so i cancelled my work this morning. i had 2 beginners and next week is looking much better so next week it is. check out ala moana this morning. going off!
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as soon as the contest started, i was glued to my tv. the reason why i didn’t drive out to the north shore to watch it live is because i wanted to see replay after replay. i use to go out to watch the contest live, but now it’s much better online.
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i was rooting for Wakita! super stoked to see him charging super hard! check out this huge wave he caught! sick!
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then the close out sets came. it’s amazing how good the hawaiian lifeguards are. simply the best in the world.
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it’s like watching a movie or something. there were thousands of people that went to watch the contest. i heard half of the high school kids skipped school, and i know hundreds of friends who called in sick to work. haha.
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to me, this was the biggest wave of the day. unbelievable!
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Wakita and John John Florence. sharing is caring.
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for all you employers and teachers, want to know where your employees and students were today? i know, they were at the bay! haha.
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congratulations to John John Florence for the biggest win a surfer could ever dream of.
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and thank you to the late Brock Little for sending this historic swell. all the boys were charging hard for you! and wanted to let you know that you still hold the world record for biggest barrel ever rode at waimea bay. i bet you’re stoked on that.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide