had another great afternoon with Akane-san yesterday. just to see her growing into the hawaiian lifestyle makes me super happy. and in order for her to become a certified local, she must know where the best shave ice on the island is. now she does.

we went into the ocean when it was pretty wild. and it got more wild and wild. so awesome to see Akane-san free dive down 35′ so easily. amazing progress. then the wild west wind picked up more and i barely got the anchor up before the waves were breaking over the front of the boat. it was freaking wild!

then we headed up to the mountains to get some fresh air.

there are a couple of spots that i just pull up to that makes my passenger window look like a picture frame. so amazing!

we were talking about how amazing hawaii is. 30 minutes ago we were diving 35′ down into the big blue ocean, and now we are standing thousands of feet above it. only in hawaii.

i like taking people here. something very different in the nature. a place for kids and adults alike.

had a great time in the blue and green. thank you Akane-san for the wonderful afternoon. super proud of you on the deep dives. next time, bluer and deeper. and swing higher and higher!

omg, Matchi caught 2 big ones again! i better get another tube of wasabi ready.

did you see the video of the guy pissing on the assembly line at a Kellogg’s factory? omg, it was disgusting! i will never eat Kellogg’s again! and yes, it was too disgusting to even post the video. if you want to see it, try to piss on your cereal this morning and eat it. same thing.

Culture
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 2′ and ugly, junky, onshore.
South shore head high and super perfect!
North winds at 10mph.
Sunny and very cool.
Going morning and afternoon surf.
Have a wonderful day!

he’s back! last year, Asayama-san came with his family and surfed in hawaii for the first time. he told me then, “i’m retired so i’m coming back next year by myself and surfing every day!” that day has come. Asayama-san arrived yesterday and the hotel checked him into a pretty bad room. when he called me, he sounded shocked and really down. dirty little room with a view to the parking garage. i told him “i’m at a wedding now and can’t do anything, but tomorrow i’ll help you out.” so i picked him up this morning and he was still sad. here in hawaii for first time alone, and told me he even thought about going home. so i asked him, “do you want to surf?” he said “not really, i’m tired.” i told him “ok, let’s go jump in the water and paddle around. you don’t have to surf, let’s just get wet. the ocean will heal you.” he said “ok.”

right when he hit the water, he was energized!!! i knew that would happen! haha. when we paddled out, i could tell he wanted to surf so bad.

i was amazed how healthy and how much energy he had. Asayama-san caught wave after wave after wave.

and paddled back out with the biggest smile! and just 15 minutes into our session, he said “i love hawaii!” haha.

we had a super fun time. just taking it slow and enjoying the hawaiian moment. Asayama-san’s been living the fast life in japan. at 67 years, he’s now retired and ready to enjoy the second chapter of his life. i’m so stoked for him.

after a whole lot of waves, Asayama-san wanted more and more. i actually had to stop him and said “please don’t overdue it. you caught so many good waves and it’s only the first day of 14 days of surfing. i also told him “when you go back to japan after all this surfing and yoga we will be doing, you are going to be a brand new young man.”

then we were so hungry so headed to Yajima-ya for the one and only mushroom chicken plate.

i had a wonderful day with Asayama-san and i’m really looking forward to spending so much time with him in the next 2 weeks. he has lots on his agenda and we will accomplish it all!

then went back into the ocean and mountains in the afternoon with Akane-san. it was a day to experience some super nature! tomorrow another long day so better be going to sleep. goodnight!