he’s back! last year, Asayama-san came with his family and surfed in hawaii for the first time. he told me then, “i’m retired so i’m coming back next year by myself and surfing every day!” that day has come. Asayama-san arrived yesterday and the hotel checked him into a pretty bad room. when he called me, he sounded shocked and really down. dirty little room with a view to the parking garage. i told him “i’m at a wedding now and can’t do anything, but tomorrow i’ll help you out.” so i picked him up this morning and he was still sad. here in hawaii for first time alone, and told me he even thought about going home. so i asked him, “do you want to surf?” he said “not really, i’m tired.” i told him “ok, let’s go jump in the water and paddle around. you don’t have to surf, let’s just get wet. the ocean will heal you.” he said “ok.”
right when he hit the water, he was energized!!! i knew that would happen! haha. when we paddled out, i could tell he wanted to surf so bad.
i was amazed how healthy and how much energy he had. Asayama-san caught wave after wave after wave.
and paddled back out with the biggest smile! and just 15 minutes into our session, he said “i love hawaii!” haha.
we had a super fun time. just taking it slow and enjoying the hawaiian moment. Asayama-san’s been living the fast life in japan. at 67 years, he’s now retired and ready to enjoy the second chapter of his life. i’m so stoked for him.
after a whole lot of waves, Asayama-san wanted more and more. i actually had to stop him and said “please don’t overdue it. you caught so many good waves and it’s only the first day of 14 days of surfing. i also told him “when you go back to japan after all this surfing and yoga we will be doing, you are going to be a brand new young man.”
then we were so hungry so headed to Yajima-ya for the one and only mushroom chicken plate.
i had a wonderful day with Asayama-san and i’m really looking forward to spending so much time with him in the next 2 weeks. he has lots on his agenda and we will accomplish it all!
then went back into the ocean and mountains in the afternoon with Akane-san. it was a day to experience some super nature! tomorrow another long day so better be going to sleep. goodnight!
