i still can’t believe how uncrowded it was yesterday. i checked everywhere in the morning and everywhere was packed, except here. Takeda-san on a perfect right point wave all to himself!

i’ve surfed this spot for over 30 years. about 25 years ago, i remember once a took out my tahitian friend for an evening session. one big local guy tried to pick on me for just paddling for a wave. then my tahitian friend paddled up to him and used his head as a punching bag. it was so bad and bloody that i had to stop it because i didn’t want any sharks coming. i’ve never seen that local ever since. then yesterday, luckily none of my crazy friends were out because it could have gotten bloody again. i’m all about peace. to fight over a chest high wave is senseless. but when somebody wants to fight you, you have no choice but to fight back. that’s how i was raised here in hawaii. nice wave Takeda-san.

i got some really good ones too. i’m going to surf out there more often! miss that wave!

beautiful Manoa for Manoa-chan!

then went to surf bowls in the afternoon. it was super fun! no stress and just happy people enjoying the beautiful ocean.

peace and surf! the wave that ended our day!

The war continues…
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 2-4’ and perfect.
South shore chest high and perfect.
Light winds today and tomorrow.
Rain coming today.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Takeda-san and i checked everywhere this morning and ended up at the best spot, diamond head. we found a peak and only had 3 guys out. scored!

surprised how empty it was today. just a few locals and lots of waves.

right when we paddled out, one angry local started yelling at Takeda-san. i started yelling at him, then his friend started yelling at me, then i started yelling at him. it was almost a full on fight with 2 guys on me and i didn’t give a shit. i was so pissed that these 2 guys thought we were japanese tourist surfers. when people discriminate against me because i’m japanese, i think that’s totally racist and i won’t back down. the yelling almost turned into a fight but things cooled down. Takeda-san looked like he saw a ghost. i asked him “are you ok?” he said “no, i’m so scared.” i told him, don’t worry, i’m here so nothing will happen to you. one guy eventually went in, but i was still super pissed off. then the other guy paddled to me and said “sorry brah, i shouldn’t have gotten involved.” i told him “brah, that’s fucked up. if we where to big hawaiians, no way you guys would have done that shit.” he apologized again, then paddled up to Takeda-san and apologized and shook his hand too. that was cool. we stayed out and had a great surf session because everybody went in after. we got back to the car and i told Takeda-san “never back down to people like that. i got super pissed and was ready to fight for 2 reasons. one for you because you are with me, and the other is for all the japanese tourists that come to hawaii to surf. maybe those guys will think again before they pick on another japanese.”

then we took a meaningful drive into manoa valley. why? because Takeda-san’s wife Michiko-san is expecting a baby girl next month. her name will be Manoa. so cute!

and yes, Manoa was so beautiful! as green as it gets!

flowers blooming everywhere.

we were starving so went to eat the famous secret spot prime rib for lunch. ate it all!

thank you Takeda-san for the wonderful day. sorry again you had to see what you did this morning. sorry for losing my cool, i just don’t like people who pick on japanese. please don’t let those 2 local surfers ruin your image of hawaii. the other 99% of the locals are really nice people. i hope that number will be 100% someday! that would be my dream!