i still can’t believe how uncrowded it was yesterday. i checked everywhere in the morning and everywhere was packed, except here. Takeda-san on a perfect right point wave all to himself!
i’ve surfed this spot for over 30 years. about 25 years ago, i remember once a took out my tahitian friend for an evening session. one big local guy tried to pick on me for just paddling for a wave. then my tahitian friend paddled up to him and used his head as a punching bag. it was so bad and bloody that i had to stop it because i didn’t want any sharks coming. i’ve never seen that local ever since. then yesterday, luckily none of my crazy friends were out because it could have gotten bloody again. i’m all about peace. to fight over a chest high wave is senseless. but when somebody wants to fight you, you have no choice but to fight back. that’s how i was raised here in hawaii. nice wave Takeda-san.
i got some really good ones too. i’m going to surf out there more often! miss that wave!
beautiful Manoa for Manoa-chan!
then went to surf bowls in the afternoon. it was super fun! no stress and just happy people enjoying the beautiful ocean.
peace and surf! the wave that ended our day!
