went down early this morning to watch the Surf into Summer. my nephew Isaiah had the first heat at 7:30am so didn’t want to miss it. watched him dominate his first heat, then when he went out for the next round, absolutely no waves came in for him. it was frustrating, but at the same time, can’t get mad at mother nature. that’s the contest life. love it or leave it. and that’s why i left it. haha.

sitting, watching, and shooting contests is fun. as for surfing in them, never again for me. i spent over 20 years of competitive surfing and i don’t need the stress anymore. i like my life now a lot more.

it’s amazing how Local Motion has been putting on this contest on for decades. the biggest and best amateur contest in the world.

a very beautiful day for a wedding. and a beautiful start to a newlywed life.

had a 3 hour break between Isaiah’s heat so talked Tammy and Tony into a fun ride out to sea.

the girls on the front of the boat, and me the crazy driver behind the wheel, not a safe combination. haha. we went flying high! lot’s of screening, and almost peeing in the pants. haha.

so stoked to watch Reika Noro win the WQS contest in japan! a dream coming true for this young professional surfer. known this girl since she was a little kid. so proud of her! great job Reika!
well, heading to the contest super early tomorrow morning. going to cheer for Aoi and try to relax his nerves. i’m sure he won’t be sleeping good tonight. it reminds me of the first contest i entered when i was 18 years old. i didn’t sleep at all the night before. i couldn’t imagine what a 13 year old is feeling right now. anyway, good night Aoi. see you early in the morning!

OMG! Perfect!
Glassy and only 4 surfers!!!

yesterday afternoon was day 2 of another marathon surf session. Matsui-san surfing better and better, and riding the waves longer and longer. after these past 2 days, he will be stronger than ever.

he caught some bigger waves and was making all the drops. Matsui-san surfs kugenuma so i kept telling him, “this wave is totally different.” different approach, different riding, and different stoke. and if this was kugenuma, there would be over a hundred surfers in this photo. 15 riding this wave, and 85 in the background.

great job Matsui-san. take the stoke back to japan see you next year!

seen Aoi paddling out yesterday evening to practice for the contest. this kid is surfing better and better each day. ever since our pipeline session last year, his level of surfing has progressed so much. i think it’s the confidence building up. and this kid is only 13 years old. bright surfing future ahead!