yesterday afternoon was day 2 of another marathon surf session. Matsui-san surfing better and better, and riding the waves longer and longer. after these past 2 days, he will be stronger than ever.
he caught some bigger waves and was making all the drops. Matsui-san surfs kugenuma so i kept telling him, “this wave is totally different.” different approach, different riding, and different stoke. and if this was kugenuma, there would be over a hundred surfers in this photo. 15 riding this wave, and 85 in the background.
great job Matsui-san. take the stoke back to japan see you next year!
seen Aoi paddling out yesterday evening to practice for the contest. this kid is surfing better and better each day. ever since our pipeline session last year, his level of surfing has progressed so much. i think it’s the confidence building up. and this kid is only 13 years old. bright surfing future ahead!
