I’m the happiest surfer/diver in the world!!!!

Surfing life in Hawaii. Everyday is different.
Good morning 5:20am.
Solid South swell continues! BIGGER THAN YESTERDAY!
4-6’ at Ala Moana and good!
6’ at Diamond Head and windy.
Little bumpy conditions because of strong winds.
East winds at 25mph.
Sunny, showers, and rainbows.
Going airport.
Have a wonderful day!

Future free diver? Mateus asked me: “unco, take me swimming pleeze.”
Good morning 6am.
South swell continues.
4-6’ at Ala Moana. Super good!
6’ plus at Diamond Head. Windy but good.
15mph trade winds.
Sunny morning becoming raining this afternoon.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!