when the waves are small, you still can see some amazing things. all you need is a mask, camera, and timing. i just love to swim under a wave and see this. it’s total beauty!

then i pop up and see Aoi flying down the line. this kids surfing is getting faster and much more radical.

the most beautiful place in the world, the Pacific Ocean!

many people have told me that my paddle board is way to small for the molokai channel. it’s like trying to catch a 20′ wave at waimea bay with a 5’10 shortboard. maybe i’ll try to borrow a longer one. but if not, i’ll just use what i have. and this is all i have. and if i make it, i’ll even surprise myself!

another photo from the most beautiful world in the world.

want to thank Shimizu-san for the gifts from japan!

some sweet Dasai sake. i just love it! now i need some good sushi to go along with this.

and an amazing snack. not sure what it was, but it sure tasted really good. thank you again Shimizu-san!

My Mexican Lunch yesterday. Go good Amigo!
Good morning 5am.
South swell here!
Shoulder high at Ala Moana. Getting bigger.
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, showers, sun, and rainbows.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

i keep on thinking about the awesome Kool and the Gang concert. it was so amazing! listening to all the classic music loud and clear. it was so loud that my ears were ringing! and the vibe couldn’t have been any better.

want to thank Maki-san for getting us the best seats! we were in the 8th row straight center. then when they played the song “Ladies Night,” i knew Maki-san was going to rush the stage. her ringtone was this song for years! and she wasn’t the only lady in the front row. it was totally “Ladies Night” with the ladies! look good and you will find Maki-san up front with the big smile!

and Maki-san sent me this photo she got up front. freaking so clear! such a great memory that i will never forget.

Kazu-san is my concert buddy. we’ve been to so many 70’s and 80’s concerts in hawaii. always enjoying the music sipping on jacksan. can’t wait for the next one!

say goodbye to the sunny sky. rained all day today and more rain over the weekend. but i love it. it’s mother nature showing us all her colors.

as for the south swell? the only thing that came up was the crowd. haha. small waves all day but because the surf report has been predicting waves from yesterday, all the surfers just couldn’t wait. don’t worry guys, it’s coming. and when it does, i’ll see you all in the barrel! going dawn patrol tomorrow so better get to sleep. good night.