had an awesome day with Suzuki-san yesterday. surfed 2 round and made some adjustments in his surfing. by the end of the day, he was surfing super perfectly!

riding the longest wave in your life is an amazing thing. but riding the longest wave after wave after wave in your life is more than amazing. just ask Suzuki-san.

i don’t even have to ask how it feels anymore. i just have to look at the facial expression. and when you have an expression of happiness and surprise at the same time, it must have been good. haha.

ate a healthy pho for lunch.

then needed something sweet.

Suzuki-san had the green tea, i had the root beer. thank you Suzuki-san for the wonderful day. see you again tomorrow. LOOK FORWARD!!!

Man of War! Ouch!
Good morning 5:45am.
No South swell yet?
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
South swell coming soon.
Rainy, cloudy, and dark. Sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

ok, when breathtaking photos like this circulate on social media, it draws attention. there is an illegal hike on the east side. not supposed to go there because it’s private property. BUT, thousands of people have been hiking up there every month. and somebody put up this swing. the cool thing about this is it’s super risky. Why? because if somebody gets hurt or dies, it’s always the responsibility of the land owner. in this case, the Board of Water Supply. remember this is america, people do dumb things but it’s always somebody else’s fault. and yes, who ever has the better lawyer wins.

so what did the Board of Water Supply do? they took it down yesterday. no swing anymore. that should work until somebody else puts up another one.

want to congratulate Miss Hawaii for becoming runner up of the Miss America Pagent. this is island beauty!

weird weather? i think so!!! i started tracking typhoons 25 years ago and i don’t remember a season that had absolutely no typhoons until mid-june? weird?

we call this “the calm before the storm.” super small waves today but get ready for some huge surf this weekend. surfed 5 hours today and had so much fun! can’t wait till the swell hits. i’ll be spending 7-8 hours in the barrel! haha.

omg, i just watched this movie called “The Boy in the Striped Pajamas.” did you see it??? if you didn’t, it’s a must watch movie. i highly recommend it!!!