i had a wonderful 3 days of surfing with Rikita-san. it’s amazing that he’s only been surfing for 3 years, but his level is more like 10 years. a very strong and kind man. super fun surfing with you dude! peace!

i keep telling everyone to just go. if i say go, you go. then sometimes i will ride behind you and make sure you are surfing perfectly. sometimes i yell, and sometimes i laugh. but most of the times, i do both. haha.

and yes, i still get the magic diamond head view no matter what.

and yes, i get to ride some empty waves too. and i love the view each and every time.

when ever you look for dolphins, they aren’t there. but when you least expect it, they just pop up. Rikita-san was super lucky for this dolphin experience. it was amazing.

the came pretty close in. look how shallow it is! i think they just came in to play with us.

they hung around for about 30 minutes and went back to to the deep blue sea. perfect timing again!

after 3 days of the hot sun, we were totally burnt. thank you Rikita-san for the awesome surfing and wonderful experiences. keep on surfing and see you again!

Goodbye my Hero.
Good morning 5:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
No wind so nice morning conditions.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

you just never know what you will see when you enter the ocean. today was a normal day surfing some fun waves at ala moana. but right when we paddled out, there was a pod of dolphins right outside of the lineup. it was freaking amazing! swam with them a little, then surfed a lot.

then went to eat some poke! the number 1 and 7 combo is the best!

super combo bowl for $10 including the drink, you can’t go wrong.

i ordered the number 3 hawaiian style ahi, and number 7 spicy ahi today. delicious!

as i was drinking my coke, i saw how many calories are in each can. 140! omg!

and 39g of sugar? no wonder i’m addicted to coke! haha.

i always wanted to go to the store where the old grandma got robbed and choked out. and Rikita-san wanted to go to so today was the perfect day. all we wanted to do was support the store, and the best way is to buy something from there. simple.

Rikita-san is a very kind man. grandma wasn’t there because she was taking a nap. but grandpa was. it’s so sad to see how a little store like this can get robbed in daylight. and even more sad to see somebody assault a grandma like that. if somebody came in to rob this store again while we were there, they would have come at a bad time. both Rikita-san and i would have beat the shit out of the guys. i guarantee that.

waves have been absolutely perfect. super clean and super sunny.

another day in paradise. i’m starting to feel travel sick. watching airplanes flying by every day makes me want to jump on a plane. maybe soon i will. but for now, i’ll enjoy each and every precious day right here in paradise.