Addicted to Coke!

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you just never know what you will see when you enter the ocean. today was a normal day surfing some fun waves at ala moana. but right when we paddled out, there was a pod of dolphins right outside of the lineup. it was freaking amazing! swam with them a little, then surfed a lot.
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then went to eat some poke! the number 1 and 7 combo is the best!
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super combo bowl for $10 including the drink, you can’t go wrong.
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i ordered the number 3 hawaiian style ahi, and number 7 spicy ahi today. delicious!
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as i was drinking my coke, i saw how many calories are in each can. 140! omg!
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and 39g of sugar? no wonder i’m addicted to coke! haha.
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i always wanted to go to the store where the old grandma got robbed and choked out. and Rikita-san wanted to go to so today was the perfect day. all we wanted to do was support the store, and the best way is to buy something from there. simple.
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Rikita-san is a very kind man. grandma wasn’t there because she was taking a nap. but grandpa was. it’s so sad to see how a little store like this can get robbed in daylight. and even more sad to see somebody assault a grandma like that. if somebody came in to rob this store again while we were there, they would have come at a bad time. both Rikita-san and i would have beat the shit out of the guys. i guarantee that.
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waves have been absolutely perfect. super clean and super sunny.
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another day in paradise. i’m starting to feel travel sick. watching airplanes flying by every day makes me want to jump on a plane. maybe soon i will. but for now, i’ll enjoy each and every precious day right here in paradise.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide