5.5 hours surfing today. another beautiful day and more beautiful stories.

had an awesome morning with Rikita-san. super stoked to be surfing with him again and watching wave after wave of perfect long rides.

Rikita-san is a really cool guy. just a hard core surfer that loves to surf. we have a great time surfing and talking about all kinds of things.

coming from Nara-ken where the nearest beach is 2 hours away, it must be nice to be able to surf right in front of your hotel right here in honolulu. and must be even nicer to surf clean water and perfect waves.

everybody enjoying this beautiful sunny day in paradise!

i took my longboard out today because i felt like doing yoga. the most natural place for a yoga mat.

i talk to yogis from all over the world and we all agree that yoga has changed our body, mind, and souls. and also made me a very easy relaxed person. just don’t get me mad. haha.

Rikita-san looks like a MMA fighter. a super strong body and super strong mind.

my favorite chicken long rice pho. so delicious.

thank you for the wonderful morning Rikita-san. great job surfing. see you tomorrow afternoon as we attack more and more waves!

then went to pick up the girls in the afternoon. they came straight off the airplane from japan. first time to hawaii, and first time surfing. we surfed, ate, ate, and ate. it’s incredible how much energy these 2 young ladies had. i’m totally sunburnt and drained now so the stories will continue tomorrow. goodnight for now.

i took Kai-san and his wife surfing last week. after we came in, Kai-san forgot his gopro in the parking lot. we didn’t realize it until we got back to the hotel. i told him “omg, it’s probably gone.” i went back anyway to look for it and had no luck. when i was driving home, i thought to myself “um, i returned so many things i found before so maybe i’ll get lucky and get his gopro back.” but deep inside, i was really thinking “no way.”

3 days later, a guy paddles up to me in the lineup and asks, “did you or your friend lose a gopro?” i had to think for a little while??? omg, “yes!” i asked him “how did you know it was us???” he said “i downloaded the video and recognized your surfboard.” i got his number, called him up, and drove out to his house to get it. his house was pretty far, but i went anyway. then on the way back, i went to check out my secret spot nearby. surfed and scored! so i guess you can say “double score!”

hey Kai-san, i got your gopro so give me your address and i’ll send it to you. stoked you can have some of your hawaiian honeymoon memories back. and want to thank Dave for being so honest and giving the gopro back. it’s good to know there are good people here in hawaii. thank you again!

want to say hi to Takeda-san and Michiko-san. can’t wait to see your new baby! thank you for the message. i’m sorry again for the local guy trying to hassle you at diamond head. just want you to remember that if somebody wants to fight you, they will have to fight me first. and after they fight me, they will have to fight a hundred of my friends. so don’t worry, you’re totally safe here in hawaii.

want to thank Abe-san for the snacks from sendai. love it!!!

after a long day in the ocean tasting the salty water, these sweets will make me very happy!

Keep exercising!
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and nice.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm. Lots of rainbows.
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!