after surfing for so long yesterday morning, i was starving! so i thought i’d treat myself to a delicious japanese lunch. went to Ginza Bairin because they have the best tonkatsu on the whole island.

i ordered the mixed katsu lunch special. costs $13 for al this! it’s all you can eat rice, miso soup, and cabbage. so because i’m a surfer and like free things, i ordered extra of everything. haha.

going back out into the ocean on such a beautiful day like this, it’s just pure excitement. i’m always singing to myself on the way out. usually the song “shimanchu nu takara” by begin.

and watching the waves with the best view. cheering on some friends and enjoying the perfect summer days.

gosh, i miss molokai already. i miss living off the land. if you want to eat fish, you have to go catch your own. if you want to eat meat, you have to hunt your own. many different ways to hunt. i was learning from true hawaiians living the island lifestyle. and guess what? i loved every single thing about it. here is Bronson preparing for an upcoming dinner.

just like the ocean, you never know what you will come across. so everyday is different. very exciting to be a part of nature.

feeling the wind coming off the mountain, smelling the fresh air, and watching the sun rise over the plains. i felt like i was in heaven.

on father’s day, i speared my dinner. then i came home to clean it and prepared it. i have a special way of cooking this type of fish. very simple, and very delicious. and once you take a bite, you can’t stop eating.

i ate everything all by myself! along with 2 bowls of rice, i was a very happy man! i want to thank the ocean for providing me such fresh and healthy food. this is how i want to live for the rest of my life. maybe i better move to molokai soon. haha.

Great timing!
Good morning 6:20am.
South swell continues.
Solid 5’ at Ala Moana.
Solid 5’ at Diamond Head.
Solid 4’ at Waikiki.
Trade winds at 20mph so good conditions.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, the waves were huge again today! twice as big than yesterday. so before we paddled out, i told Ueno-san, “don’t worry, the waves are just like yesterday.” i said that so he wouldn’t be so nervous. but i’m sure he knew. haha.

and after surfing big waves yesterday, today was easy. i was just watching him catch set after set. some pretty big ones. so cool!

then finally the perfect right comes right to him. i yell “paddle” and he rode the wave all the way from bowls to rock piles. that happened to be his best wave of his life!

today was locals only. Troy on a nice one.

seen Kamalei Alexander on a super long barrel! and he made it all the way to the end.

got my fair share of waves too. lefts and rights all morning long. very uncrowded lineup so the boys were just taking turns. plenty of waves for everyone. we surfed for almost 4 hours!!!

besides Ueno-san’s best wave of his life, he also duck dove the biggest waves in his life. i told him after “congratulations, you just graduated from a small wave surfer to a big wave surfer.” haha.

another day of another surfer exceeding his expectations. great job Ueno-san. i hope you enjoyed your first trip and first surf in big wave hawaii!

after i dropped off Ueno-san, i went straight back into the ocean. back to my favorite right hander that always provides the best barrels around. surfed for over 3 hours making my total 7.5 hours of surfing today. sunburnt and so happy.

more waves all week. and another south swell coming too. so happy to be right here where i want to be, in the barrel!