omg, the waves were huge again today! twice as big than yesterday. so before we paddled out, i told Ueno-san, “don’t worry, the waves are just like yesterday.” i said that so he wouldn’t be so nervous. but i’m sure he knew. haha.
and after surfing big waves yesterday, today was easy. i was just watching him catch set after set. some pretty big ones. so cool!
then finally the perfect right comes right to him. i yell “paddle” and he rode the wave all the way from bowls to rock piles. that happened to be his best wave of his life!
today was locals only. Troy on a nice one.
seen Kamalei Alexander on a super long barrel! and he made it all the way to the end.
got my fair share of waves too. lefts and rights all morning long. very uncrowded lineup so the boys were just taking turns. plenty of waves for everyone. we surfed for almost 4 hours!!!
besides Ueno-san’s best wave of his life, he also duck dove the biggest waves in his life. i told him after “congratulations, you just graduated from a small wave surfer to a big wave surfer.” haha.
another day of another surfer exceeding his expectations. great job Ueno-san. i hope you enjoyed your first trip and first surf in big wave hawaii!
after i dropped off Ueno-san, i went straight back into the ocean. back to my favorite right hander that always provides the best barrels around. surfed for over 3 hours making my total 7.5 hours of surfing today. sunburnt and so happy.
more waves all week. and another south swell coming too. so happy to be right here where i want to be, in the barrel!
