5-73 is Go-Nami. the new buggy license plate!

i went to Nijiya market and seen something interesting. a kumu? wow, a kumu in Nijiya?

so i had to take a closer look. first, the kumu didn’t look that tasty. i just ate my kumu last night and it looked 1000x better than this.

so i read the label and it says “Moi Shioyaki” or (fried thread fish)???? wrong! this is not a moi, and this is not a thread fish. can’t be making these kind of mistakes in hawaii.

want to thank Hikaru-san for taking this photo of me in my office. i just love teaching kids how to surf. watching their facial expressions after their first wave is the ultimate reward.

and want to thank Oshima-san for giving me this awesome present! a rip curl search GPS watch! omg!

this watch calculates the number of waves ridden, length, and speed. it’s totally GPS and the smartest surf watch in the world. took me some time to program it but now it’s ready to go!

i wonder how fast i can go! i’ll let you know my speed when i get a smoking fast barrel! can’t wait!

Get out of my way!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 10mph. 50mph tonight.
Clouds, rain, storm, sun, warm, very unpredictable.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

ok, hang on to your hats, surfboards, and houses! tropical darby is coming at us head on. expected to hit oahu tomorrow night so strong winds, heavy rain, and very dangerous conditions. i better get down and secure Mayuki!

surfed this morning with Kawato-san. super cool surfer experiencing hawaii for the first time. here is his first hawaiian wave! i wonder how it must feel to finally catch your first wave in hawaii? must be good yeah?

then i started getting brave with my camera trying to get a good close up shot of Kawato-san. check out this beautiful photo! BUT, as i was shooting this, i felt a surfboard go over my head!!!!

some idiot came flying down the line and almost killed me! i was so pissed! i swear you shouldn’t be surfing if you can’t control your own surfboard! but after i yelled at the guy, i thought to myself “if he didn’t fall over me, he would have killed Kawato-san!” so i guess that was good.

we were lucky to be alive. haha. awesome first surf session in hawaii Kawato-san! see you tomorrow!

then went surfing with Oshima-san in the afternoon. so stoked to see him back here in hawaii! such a cool guy that loves to surf. body in great shape, riding good waves, and getting better and better each wave.

tried to say far away from Oshima-san because i was still traumatized from almost getting killed in the morning. haha.

awesome job surfing today Oshima-san. see you tomorrow and everyday this week! by the time you leave, you will be ripping even harder.