had an awesome day 2 surf with Shimada-san this morning. the waves were big and the nerves were high. it was an amazing morning!

just to make it out on a day like today is pretty hard. you have to time it right in-between the big sets. and when you get out and catch your first wave, all the nerves are gone.

and the paddle back out is so rewarding.

great job Shimada-san! get some rest because we’re going to do it all over again on sunday. big waves and big smiles!

went to try out this new cafe that opened up. heard it’s really good but when we got there, they cancelled breakfast???

but every thing else looked good.

instead we went to Andy’s and ate the best homemade sandwiches on the island. never disappointed at Andy’s in manoa.

then picked up Asayama-san for an afternoon big wave session. big nerves and big waves. haha.

then was invited to another small family party at the moniz house. small turned into big again. good to finally see all the kids at home.
left my house at 7am and just came home at 9:30pm. i’m so beat. goodnight.

the most rewarding part of my job is to share surfing and make people happy. just paddling out is exciting!

especially when there is blue sky and a welcoming rainbow.

and i do my very best to capture a photo of everybody’s first wave ever ridden. here is Sapi’s first wave ever!

here is Natsumi-chan’s first ever wave.

and here is Mai-san’s first ever wave. all 3 girls loving the moment. they fell in love with the ocean that’s the ultimate reward.

thank you osaka surfer boy and new surfer girls. hope you all continue to enjoy beautiful hawaii!

getting back to yesterday afternoon. it’s been 5 long years since i surfed with Shimada-san. and i was super happy to see her riding the waves so well.

when surfers come to hawaii just to surf, i think that’s cool. to me, that’s the meaning of a true surfer. Shimada-san is here to surf so surf is what we will do. by the time she leaves, she will probably surf the biggest wave of her life. how do i know? because a big swell is coming and this girl has no fear.

great job surfing yesterday Shimada-san. getting off the airplane and going straight to surf is awesome. i bet you had a very nice sleep last night. i sure did. haha.

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Good morning 6am.
South swell here!
Ala Moana shoulder high and getting bigger.
Diamond Head overhead and fun.
Very crowded everywhere.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!