wow! yesterday afternoon was so beautiful. the waves were perfect and nobody was out! so stoked to see Kosugi-san surfing better and better. last week when we surfed, we made a little adjustments and now it’s paying off.

she’s surfing so good. no falling, just riding perfect waves like this from start to finish. almost getting barreled on this wave. i love this photo.

and the biggest smile on the way back out. a great feeling!

we’ve been having some good timing. seems like before we paddled out, the waves were junk so that’s why nobody was out. then we surfed for 2.5 hours and it got crowded after. but we were done. lucky!

great job Kosugi-san. see you again this afternoon. and congratulations on your first head stand at yoga. and congratulations on your biggest and best wave surfing. what a perfect day for you yesterday!

and thank you very much for the snack you got for me! the pickled dry mango was tasting great on my drive home.

this guy was taking photos at bowls the other day when i went to sneak over for a wave. it was a perfect one!

gosh, at times like these, i wish i was on my shortboard. haha.

but hey, surfing is surfing. just to be riding a wave on top of the ocean is a fantasy! more swells on the way with this beautiful weather continuing every single day. i just love summer time in hawaii!

Another day, another turtle. Let’s Go-Snorkeling!
Good morning 6am.
Waist high with sometimes chest high sets at Ala Moana. Clean.
Chest high at Diamond Head and windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

ouch, these are the worst kind of dings to get on a surfboard. i was backing out of my driveway yesterday and something was wrong. i looked in my rear view mirror and seen 2 surfboards flying in the air! omg! one of them flew right over my truck and rolled all the way across the street. it was the first time the wind picked up the boards and threw them around like that. it was crazy!

i got out and thought to myself “OMG!” look how far the board flew! that’s where it landed. luckily it didn’t hit any cars.

so yes, the board is pretty much finished. dings everywhere. luckily i have the best ding repair friends in the world. hopefully can save this boards life.

was bummed until i pulled up to the beach. then local surfer Les started wiping my car down. that kind of cheered me up to have such good surfer friends like him.

thank you for wiping my truck Les. and thank you for always giving me your parking space. i can feel the love.

i just cooked the Mu i speared. i was singing in the kitchen preparing it because i know it was going to be good.

i have a very simple way of making it. you would freak out how easy it is, and how good it tastes.

i love chinese parsley and green onions so i always put a lot.

and i appreciate every living thing i kill. that’s why i don’t waste any bit. totally satisfaction eating this wonderful dish. i hope to go back out this week to get another one!