See the fin? Cool!
Good morning 5:15am.
Ala Moana waist/chest high. Clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going dawn patrol now.
Have a wonderful day!
Monthly Archives: July 2016
July 28, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report
BRAVEHEART KID!
another awesome day surfing with this awesome family. Shintaro-san starting to turn, turn, and turn. soon, he will be doing off the lips on perfect indo waves. amazing improvements.
getting to a point to surf perfect indonesia waves takes steps by steps. that’s the goal and that goal is coming faster than i thought.
Ojiro-kun stole the show today. he told me he wanted to surf by himself yesterday, but i wasn’t sure if he was going to go through it. but once he came to the beach this morning, he looked more ready than ever.
look at the determination on his face. he didn’t only want to surf by himself, he wanted to do everything by himself. he actually paddled into this wave by himself. 7 years old? are you kidding me???
everybody in the ocean was cheering for him too! it was so cute!
and since he learned how to fall yesterday, he wasn’t scared at all. after this, he told me “i want to catch another one.”
so we paddled back out and got another one. and then another one. absolutely perfect surfing Ojiro-kun. you are one of the most bravest kid i’ve ever seen. keep on surfing dude!
then it was mama’s turn. Saori-san didn’t have the greatest session the day before so today was revenge. and revenge it was! perfect surfing all morning!
this will be Saori-san’s last wave for this hawaiian trip. and i know the feeling of surfing a last good wave oh too well. she will be smiling all the way to the airport.
great job Saori-san! and great job to the rest of the family. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
Step by Step: Da Hawaiian Poke Company
if you teach a kid how to surf, you must teach them how to fall. the reason for that is because someday you won’t be there. and if the kid falls for the first time with nobody around, they will freak out and probably quit surfing. so yesterday, without telling Ojiro-kun, i taught him how to fall.
i let him fall, then i grab him and and make sure he doesn’t hit the surfboard or reef.
then i give him a little lift in the butt so he doesn’t sink. not a big lift, a little one just to get his head above the water.
then i help him calmly back to the board. not too much assist because i want him to be able to get back to the board by himself.
of course Ojiro-kun is freaking out, but i tell him “hey, did you make me fall on purpose?” then his freaked out face turns into laughter. we laugh, we laugh, and we get back on the board. i ask him “one more time?” and he says “yes!” then we do it all over again. so next time he falls, he will be ok.
gosh, did you ever try the new poke place called “Da Hawaiian Poke Company?”
it was pretty dam good!
and it’s even better when you have great company with these two beautiful families! i just love the smiles!
