surfed Bowls this morning and the waves were perfect! i think today was the best day of the week. not the biggest, but by far the cleanest and most perfect.
since Hawaii is still in lockdown, you won’t find any tourists in the lineup, especially at Bowls. Lance Hookano paddled out mid morning and made all of us laugh with his jokes and humor….
ok, i decided to choose between a Delica and Jimny. the Delica is too big for my garage but the Jimny is perfect! so yes, i’m still looking for a white one. year 1985-1994. turbo, air condition, and low mileage. thank you to my friends for helping me look for one. if there was no lockdown, i’d fly to Japan today to buy one!
after a full week of surfing everyday on epic waves, tomorrow i’ll go back to flying. the swell is down, the tide is high, and i feel like flying like a bird. see you in the air!
when i first started foiling, i dreamt of doing an off the lip. it took me a very long time of practice and many frustrations, but i never gave up. 
now it comes naturally. it actually feels like i’m surfing. 
and once you go off the lip, the speed is 5x faster than being on a shortboard. 
so 5x faster equals 5x happier. and the cool thing is i can do this over and over on wave after wave until my heart stops beating from being so exhausted. haha.
after a good day in the ocean, nothing beats this! 
L.O.V.E…
Trade winds, passing showers, and beautiful rainbows…
