spent 2 days on the North Shore and learned a lot. learned that more and more surfers are getting into foiling. who did i see? John Pyzel, Matt Mondragon, John John Florence, Glen Pang, and many many others. had a blast foiling with the boys out there!
we are foiling spots we’d never even heard of. epic conditions and super long rides.
of the 35 years i’ve been going to the North Shore, this was the first time i came to this beach. and surely it won’t be my last. nobody there and it was so beautiful! 
i sat on the beach watching. i saw John John Florence jump in the shorebreak, take off on a knee high wave, pump all the way out to sea, and ride 5 long swells. his first ride was 5 minutes. he was flying like an Eagle! he made everybody else including me, look like little pidgins… haha…
and if you don’t know who Matt Mondragon is, he’s an unknown surfer that rode one of the best Sunset Barrels in history. i use to surf amateur contests with him and nobody knew him, until this cover shot came out. one photo made him famous worldwide! good to see you foiling Matt!
**after this cover shot came out, everybody went to surf Sunset to try to get a photo like this. that was 30 years ago and i’ve never seen anything even close. timing is everything! photo by Aaron Chang.
after foiling the North shore for so long, i was super tired and dehydrated. came back to the car and Uncle Brian gave me a snack. i ate it and it was amazing!!! going to keep a few of these in my car…
if you know Uncle Brian, he will take care of you like family. just super kind and very supportive. for the past 30 years, he always says “hey kirby, if you ever come to the North shore, you call me if you need anything.” he’s one of the most respected guys on the North shore! 
Donald doesn’t know how to take it slow. when he started foiling, i always told him to slow down. but no, he will come out to the peak and try to catch the biggest wave of the day. and once he paddles, he won’t pull back. slow life is not for everyone. haha…
i came in and sat on the beach looking at the white sand, blue water, and blue sky. i didn’t want to leave…
if we didn’t start foiling, i would never see these guys as much as i do. i can tell you where they are pretty much every single day. haha. good foiling with you guys Donald and Fabian.
after all the riots going on in America, i can really appreciate Hawaii a hundred times more. that kind of stuff will never happen here. nice people, good culture, and slow life. I Love Hawaii…
My Secret Foiling Heaven: Drone photo by Donald…
