there’s been a cool car in the parking lot recently. i’ve ridden in these when i was in Japan a lot. it’s a Mitsubishi Delica! super good for the beach and on the beach. seeing it for the past 2 days, i kind of want one now. don’t be surprised if you see me with one soon. haha.
lots of people in Japan asking me when the can come back to Hawaii. here’s my answer: now is not a good time to come. the coronavirus isn’t the problem. the problem is you will have to quarantine for 14 days and i won’t take you surfing until that 14 days is done. in fact, i won’t even see you for those 14 days. you’re supposed to stay in your hotel room and not leave. i won’t help you break that rule. some tourists are leaving their rooms and getting caught. the police have been arresting people and putting them in jail. this is a very small island and i don’t want to break the rules. and if you do, please don’t tell anyone you know me…
things are changing by the day. things are getting better. right when i feel it is safe for you guys to come, i will be the first one to tell you. as for me leaving Hawaii? not anytime soon. i know i can leave, but i’m not sure if i could come back and quarantine myself for 14 days in my house. i’d go crazy! so not until it’s safe, i think everybody should stay in their own country and wait this out. and when this is all over, i’ll surf the most perfect waves with you!
10 years ago, i took this photo of the boys preparing for a free dive. and now, these kids are still dive buddies. the ocean has kept them together…
as they walked to the ocean, the boys left little Seth Moniz behind. Seth had the dirty job to carry and tow the buoy with the dead fish attached to it. Seth always had the ripped up wetsuit, holes in his booties, and the hand me down gear. little did the kids know, this is what made Seth super hungry to be the better and better. and that’s why he’s the most competitive animal out of all the other kids put together…
The Ocean is the safest place…
