Monthly Archives: May 2020

Renovation Time

since i have so much free time, i’m totally into making things better.  today i went to visit a friend at the flooring store.

picked out some nice flooring that will replace carpet.

brought it home, and will install it soon.   it’s going to be beautiful!

i got a request for a full moon surf session.  yeah, let’s go!  even if there’s no moon, you can still surf.  it’s like putting on a blindfold and going by flow.  and if you can catch a wave, it will change your life forever…

For your eyes only…

when you spend so much time in the ocean, your eyes become like this.  it’s just part of being happy i guess.  my first eye surgery was a nightmare.  my second one was another nightmare.  and the third one was even more a nightmare.  three nightmare surgeries in the past 12 years and hopefully never again.

this will probably be the most unhappiest you will ever see me.  lonely and terrified.

up close, you can see it.  i see it in so many surfers eyes and the only way to fix it is to get surgery.  in Japan, they scrape it off, but in Hawaii, they cut it out so a totally different process.  a $10,000 per eye process…

now, i don’t have red irritated eyes all day and all night long.  was it worth it?  i’d say definitely yes.  thank goodness i have the best eye doctor in the world…

May 12, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

South Shore Freedom…

Good morning 4:30am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!