summer has come very early this year.  it’s been super warm, sunny sky, and cool trade winds.  been surfing on the low tide mornings, and foiling on the high tide afternoons.  this morning paddled out at dark and scored!  new South swell is here!gradually the beaches are getting crowded.  once Hawaii fully opens up to tourists again, i think it’s going to get crazy very fast.found this old photo i took of Gen at Queens.  this is gold…spent another 5 hours on my computer looking for a Jimny in Japan.  even made a few phone calls but i forgot how to speak Japanese!  it’s been 2 months since i spoke Japanese so i’m forgetting it!!!  haha…

it seems like the crowds are thinning out.  been surfing Bowls early mornings and the locals are back in control.  thank goodness…wait!!!  since when did this hot dog tent pop up in front of the shower at Bowls????  are you serious?  i don’t like to see things like this on our public beaches… for the past couple months, i’ve been trying to get Matt on thicker boards.  he’s an old school surfer so likes thin boards.  i keep explaining to him that thicker boards equals more waves caught.  and more waves caught equals more stoke.  then we see Matt out at Bowls with his thin board.  Carter tells him his board is too thin.  then Matt says so me, “ok, i want to order a thicker board.”  haha.  sometimes it takes 2 people to change ones mind.  Matt is 70 years old and when he finds the right board, his life will change forever…Carter hasn’t foiled in months.  but he picked up right where he left off.  stoke!  i always use Asayama-san as my example for older guys.  he was 68 years old when i took him out to Pipeline/Backdoor.  lots of confidence, and more importantly, on the right board.  thick and easy…  i still remember this day very clearly.  it was Asayama-san’s dream to surf Pipeline, and it came true.  not too many people can say that in their lifetime.  so yeah, dreams to surf the most dangerous and famous surf spot in the world do come true…

Yesterday Evening:  Walking into Summer…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and perfect.

No wind so clean morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!