Water…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds getting stronger at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the tide has been so low in the mornings for the past months.  i must have hit the reef at Bowls over 10 times.  lucky it wasn’t too bad.  be careful everyone.

big waves and low tide equals lots of power.  so super strong waves this morning.  we loved it!

i sat in the Don Quijote parking lot for 30 minutes this morning.  lots of bad things happen here so i thought i’d watch for a while.   i saw homeless people looking into parked cars.  i saw a lot of weird things going on.

then this Uncle pulls up in the parking stall in front of me.  he hits my truck, gets out, and goes shopping.  he didn’t even know!  haha.  and by the look of his bumper, he must have hit many parked cars and didn’t even know.  i was going to say something to him but i just left Uncle alone.  right after this, i see a lady pull up in a brand new Porsche.  the gets out with her Gucci bag and Channel sunglasses, then walks across the street into another building.  what?  free parking in the Don Quijote parking lot?  if you could afford all that luxury, couldn’t you afford to pay for parking?  oh wait???  maybe that’s how she could afford all that!  haha.

then took Leo out to surf the big South Swell!  omg, this kid is amazing!!!  his surfing style is better than mine!  haha…

then drove by Diamond Head to watch some 5′ sets breaking way on the outside.  this strong swell should stick around for a couple more days!

after a morning surf, i come home and admire my garden.  i see these flowers all over in Japan so it reminds me of Japan.  so lovely.

about noon yesterday, i was thinking about a sauna session and sleeping at 6pm.  then i checked the waves and it looked way bigger than the morning!  so i jumped in my car and went to Big Rights.  i knew it was going to be EXCELLENT and it was!!!  empty lineup, perfect off shore winds, and solid 5′ barreling sets.  i told myself “i’m going to get a couple barrels and go in.”

the waves were so good that i was getting barreled on every wave i rode.  it was much more than a couple barrels.  i counted 10 in the 2 hours i was out.  i even got 2 barrels on the same wave.  i wanted more but didn’t want to get greedy so i went in.

after coming flying out of a barrel, Big Rights provides you with the best end section.  you’re going so fast that that you can lay all your weight on the rail and do the biggest turn of your life.  it feels so good to push so hard!

after i got in, i sat in my car for 30 minutes and watched the waves.  i was tired, sunburnt, and had no energy to drive.  then i took a few deep breaths and headed home.  i was smiling the whole way.  that session was “my time” and it was also one of my best Big Rights barrel sessions of the year.  so happy!!!