after a morning surf, i come home and admire my garden. i see these flowers all over in Japan so it reminds me of Japan. so lovely.
about noon yesterday, i was thinking about a sauna session and sleeping at 6pm. then i checked the waves and it looked way bigger than the morning! so i jumped in my car and went to Big Rights. i knew it was going to be EXCELLENT and it was!!! empty lineup, perfect off shore winds, and solid 5′ barreling sets. i told myself “i’m going to get a couple barrels and go in.”
the waves were so good that i was getting barreled on every wave i rode. it was much more than a couple barrels. i counted 10 in the 2 hours i was out. i even got 2 barrels on the same wave. i wanted more but didn’t want to get greedy so i went in.
after coming flying out of a barrel, Big Rights provides you with the best end section. you’re going so fast that that you can lay all your weight on the rail and do the biggest turn of your life. it feels so good to push so hard!
after i got in, i sat in my car for 30 minutes and watched the waves. i was tired, sunburnt, and had no energy to drive. then i took a few deep breaths and headed home. i was smiling the whole way. that session was “my time” and it was also one of my best Big Rights barrel sessions of the year. so happy!!!
