is this the best Summer in my life?  so far, absolutely yes!  

glad to see Asayama-san having one of his best Summers in his life too!  73 years old and living the dream…

Matchi is living the dream on Shikoku Island.  i’ll try to make it there for one typhoon this year!  Happy Birthday Matchi! 

fishing takes a lot of patience and waiting.  that’s not for me.  haha. 

i finally drove down King Street and saw the new mural.  it was huge!!!

Olympic Surfing Gold Medalist Carissa Moore and 3x Olympic Swimming Gold Medalist Duke Kahanamoku.  i’m so proud to be from Hawaii!

I hope Summer never ends…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana head high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

when ever the surf report says it’s over 10′ faces, the Bowls parking lot is empty.  but when the surf report says it’s 4′ faces, the parking lot is full.  so yeah, i prefer over 10′ faces everyday!  

and when it’s this big, it’s for experts only.  the wave is very strong and powerful.  i fell and hit the reef today on the outside.  and it’s over 6′ deep so imagine how far the wave pushed me down.  by the way, there were some solid 12′ faces today.  super fun!

the waves were bigger and cleaner today.  and way less people than yesterday.  weird?  but nobody out there was complaining.  tomorrow will be smaller so the parking lot should have more cars.  but you never know…