The Green Room…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

i thought the waves were going to be super small this morning so i wasn’t expecting anything.  i learned a long time ago that when you have no expectations, only good things happen.  and yes, a good thing happened because there were waves!  Tommy flying down the line…

not only were the waves good, the conditions were perfect.  beautiful long rides all morning long. 

after surfing double overhead waves this past swell, this girl became very calm.  and calm equals cool…

went back out this afternoon for Round 2 and Toda-san was out ripping!  

but Daisuke-san caught the best waves and longest rides.  he’s today’s heat winner!

last, when i use to go to the Moniz house, i use to see the funniest things.  here is young Joshua roasting a marshmallow on the stove.  pretty smart if you ask me.  haha.

yesterday afternoon Round 3 @ Rockpiles.  still a very strong swell!

Takeshi-san is well balanced!

late and beautiful take off!

surf towards the rainbow!

warm weather, warm water, and perfect waves.  only a surfer knows the feeling!