Tuesday October28日 2025年

Monthly Archives: July 2022

July 20, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday Once More:  Dean drop knee @ Bowls…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Trained in Chigasaki

when surfers come to Hawaii to surf for the first time, i really get excited to take them because i want to show them the right way.  not the tourist trap way, but the real surfers experience way.  so paddling out to overhead Bowls was the right choice for Kao-chan.   but of course i told her the waves were only chest high.  i didn’t want her to get nervous.  haha.

well, the waves were way overhead and super powerful.  it was experts only!  here’s one of the boys on a good one.

Matsuo, Tatsuya, and Kope taught this girl really good.  Kao-chan’s style was perfect, she was calm, and she surfs really good.  no wonder she’s representing Chigasaki for the All Japan Surfing Championships in Miyazaki this year.  i was really impressed with her level of surfing and composure…

sorry i lied.  there were still some very big waves today.  haha…  but i love this photo!

Ezekiel Lau paddled out so it was a good time for a photo opportunity.

Kao-chan surfing with the locals all morning long.  i’m pretty sure she gained a lot of confidence because today was big and powerful.  if you can survive that, you can survive a lot!

once again, i’m very impressed with everything this girl did today.  from choosing the right board, to checking the wax, to putting on her leash, to paddling, and to style, she did everything perfectly.  all i had to do was coach her into some good waves like this and she did the rest.  good job to the Chigasaki boys for teaching Kao-chan very well!

very energetic, very happy, and very stoked on surfing.  thank you girl for the wonderful morning!  and thank you to the Chigasaki Boys!  hope to be surfing with you this Typhoon season!

by the way, i surfed 3 rounds totaling 6.5 hours in the water today.  i’m totally burnt so signing off and closing my eyes.  goodnight…

Health is Wealth

my successful friends have taught me something very important.  they say “health is wealth.”  they told me never to cut corners or hesitate when it comes to your health.  so after getting introduced to something that has changed my health in a good way, i didn’t hesitate on getting my own.

yes, it’s very expensive, big my life is worth much more than paper money.

it was fun putting the pieces together.  want to thank Joshua for helping me out.

this is my new fitness room.  next is getting my ice bath which will be soon.  so far, this sauna has changed my life.

i have my quiet time and read books now.  if you haven’t tried this, i highly recommend it.  it’s a life changer…  so remember, “health is wealth!”